Hiatus

     There will be a brief hiatus in my blogging.  Tomorrow, March 1, is a travel dah.  Blogging will resume from the USA.  Stay tuned.

Reflections, Thailand 2018

     This is my last day in Bangkok and Thailand.  After numerous trips to SE Asia, and ten years of teaching in Ayutthaya routines are well established.  Much of what once seemed exotic is now ordinary and sometimes annoying.  Somethings which were a challenge are now simple, e.g., getting around.  Having a smattering of the Thai language is helpful in many situations, particularly knowing how to say 'no thank you'.  However, sometimes it leads to the mistaken notion that I really speak Thai as the person to whom I've said 'no' starts conversing with me in Thai.  Saying no in Thai is much more effective than saying no in English.  The school routine is now embed in my mind.  I remember on one of my earlier trips to SE Asia going by an elementary school at dismissal and wondering what school was like.  Now I know.
     The weekend in Chiang Rai was a high point.  It's a beautiful area and we did just enough tourist things.  Spending time with Pear's family was delightful...such great people.  It was fascinating to get a sense of the graduation experience even though I didn't get to see the Princess hand out 2000 diplomas.  Chiang Rai is a small city with a delightful climate...cool nights and warm days.  It has grown much since I visited 13? years ago.
     School was a bit more challenging in a positive way.  The Total Physical Response method of teaching I use must be working.  The 5th and 6th grades have mastered what I've taught previously forcing me to expand my repertoire. Now I also use my English/Thai guidebook from which I'll say  a phrase in Thai and they say it in English. Relationships with the teachers continue to deepen the new, younger teachers are both more interested in connecting with me and in using English.  The change in my status is reflected in the informal seating chart at the lunch table; gradually I've moved from eating alone, to the foot of the teacher's table, to the middle and, this year, to next to the head.  The teachers most interested in English cluster around me and the others move to the periphery.   Small changes instituted by the principal are evident as she struggles against inertia for improvement.
     Life with the family is more complicated with the presence of Nice (In a previous blog I wrote about transliteration.  Nice' mother Poo, pronounced Poe, named him that hoping he would be nice.  Thai typically drop the last syllable or sound of a word when speaking so when the family refers to Nice that call him Nii.) who is now 20 months old,  He's a shrieker; happy, sad or in between and it's an extremely loud, high ear splitting sound.  He also cries at the drop of a hat.  In spite of that my relationship with the family continues to deepen.
   Charitable work in which I engaged will be reported in separate blog post.

Pictured below is one of the improvement at the school since I began nine years ago.  Between the two buildings concrete was poured, painted with games and roofed.  It provides additional entertainment for students and a place to gather in wet weather.  There was heavy dew on the grass where the students normally sit for opening exercises so they were moved under cover.  The acoustical difference a concrete floor and steel roof make is amazing.

A kindergarten teacher arranges her students.

I'm sorry I lost the ability to sit cross legged.  Even a very old Thai person can do this.

Bangkok Sidewalk Epilogue

   Exiting the Bangkok Christian Guesthouse, my hotel, last night I found the usual food stalls doing great business.  Remarking to the Guesthouse staff "Don't they know it's Monday?"  I got more of the story about sidewalk businesses closed on Mondays.  It seems there was a government mandate that many had to be closed on Monday.  However, Soi Sala Daeng 2, my street, is considered such an insignificant street they are exempt from Monday closing.
   Here's my guess how it all came down.  Government officials responding to complaints about sidewalk congestion decided to end it all.   So they led with a big announcement to that effect.  Sidewalk food stalls are such a part of Bangkok life that there was a huge pushback.  Some of the best food in Thailand is served from these stalls and a good meal costs only a dollar or two.  Likely customers and sellers alike protested.
     Something had to be done.  The government would lose face is they just backed down.  The result is quintessentially Thai.   The order is given "All stalls on busy streets much close Mondays."   The congestion is acknowledged but life can go on almost as normal and the officials can say they acted.
    In a similar vein the law states that there be no alcohol sales on Buddha's birthday.  Indeed, most bars are closed.  This does not deter restaurants that serve alcohol.  Order a beer with your meal and some place out of sight the beer will be poured in a plastic cup before it is served to you.  Honor the thought but don't disrupt life over a principal.

A twin...5th grade.

The other twin...I often can not tell which is which.

Behold...a Sidewalk!

      Through the year I track news of Thailand.  Much has been written about government authorities clearing much of the sidewalk sales; food stalls and night market stands that sell almost everything.  The only evidence I'd noticed were most of the night market sales were gone from Silom Rd.
      Today when I exited the guesthouse I notice all the food stalls on the street, Soy Sala Deang 2, were gone.  Around the corner on Convent the same thing; all food stalls gone and the usual three foot passage was now the full sidewalk of about seven feet.  Absent, too, were the customers clogging the sidewalk.  On Suriwong, the next major street over from Silom...absent.
       Have the authorities removed them for the work week?  They were there Saturday and Sunday.  No, as it turns out, it was their day off.  As usual one answer raises another question.  How was the decision made that they would all take Monday off?  If one stayed in business they'd be swamped with sales.  Is it government mandate?  A 'gentleman's agreement'?  Even the sidewalk sewing machine guy was gone.  Whatever the answer I am glad that they all get a day off.  The typical Thai workweek is six days for $300. a month or less and no sick leave and little if any vacation.

Knowing it was my last day, students hovered around  me.

With her "Smoky" hat on her hijab teacher Da, drums.

All Was Revealed

    Readers of this blog may remember my SE Asia mantra "All will be revealed."  It's very helpful in many situations.  Countless times I've sought something in public, e.g., a seat on a minibus, and it totally appears that I'm forgotten.  Then at the right moment a signal is given and that what I sought magically appears.  Likely it's partly a language issue.  My lack of Thai combined with their limited English makes it difficult to communicate.  If I've seen a glimmer of recognition when I made my request I slip into "all will be revealed" mode and it always is.
    The mantra also works well when making plans with the family.  Case in point; Saturday, we took a driving trip to a bird sanctuary. With a day free an outing was in the works.  They floated the idea of a trip to the cave we first visited shortly after my arrival but I was cool to the idea because it was a four hour drive each way.
    The alternative planning was left up to them with the understanding it wouldn't be as far as the cave.. My assumption was we'd likely visit a temple.  Departure time was announced as 6am so I was up at 5am.  Actual departure was 8am.  We drove a couple of hours and pulled up in front of a bird sanctuary.  Wrong again...no temple.  The aviary was moderately interesting.
   On the return trip we stopped a warehouse type store.  They bought a year's supply of fish oil, two cases of bottles about the size of the usual wine bottle.  It wasn't all that expensive...which, I suppose
was why they went to that store.  Offering to pay for the oil it cost less than $25....Yes, I know I'm a big spender.
   I'm writing from Bangkok as I begin the journey home.

Ripe mango with sweet sticky rice...my favorite Thai dessert.

All of the 4th grade plus 6 3rd graders.

Wouldn't You Know?

    This is about elephants.  I've ridden them, fed, them, seen them paint pictures and play soccer, watched them being bathed in the river and posed with them.  Once sitting in an outdoor restaurant in Ayutthaya I watched as an elephant walked up behind the teacher at the table across from me and nuzzled her ear with its trunk  She was amazingly calm when she looked up into the face of an elephant.  But, trucking elephants fascinates me.  Something about the interesting animal combined with the 'farm element' of trucking I find intriguing.  I've driven by when they are being loaded and often have seen the trucks carrying them on the street,
      Deciding to act on this interest two days ago we went to the usual loading site.  Not an elephant was to be seen but soon a truck loaded with elephants went by and then another.  The traffic congestion caused by the Chinese New Year's celebration changed the loading site.  No luck.
     Tonight it was time to try again.  Arriving at the terminus of the elephant rides...they are here, to give rides to the tourists...a truck was being loaded.  Whipping out my trusty camera I took a picture and then the battery went dead.  Which raises a deep philosophical question...in this photo crazy age do you actually see something if don't get a picture of it?   Deciding that the answer is Yes, and photos are ancillary, I chose to make the best of it and see what I could observe, which, as it turned out was much, and some of which was hilarious.
     Four elephants fill a tandem axle truck that has both front and back tandems...duals only on the back tandems.  They are eager to load.  As soon as the back of the truck in hydraulically lowered forming a ramp they hustle right in whether or not they have a riders.  Some of the mahouts ride the elephant as it is being trucked to the kraal.  
    The ride terminus is a small area bounded by the loading platform from which riders gain access to the seat on the animals back, a low pipe fence for a ways, and single strand of barb wire and a large opening.  The fence is more to keep people out than elephants in.  Some are wandering around loose but most are ridden by mahouts.  One was tied to a tree with a single strand of baling twine.
    One huge bull, bareback, ambled over to a 50 gallon drum willed with water.  Filling his trunk with water he swooshed his back, sides and belly several times.  A middle aged Caucasian couple were watching just out of reach of the splashing water.   When the wash appeared to be over the women walked over if front the elephant to take a picture.  He sank his trunk in the barrel, sucked up snootfull and blasted the woman from about five feet away.  She ran laughing, and soaked, back to her husband where they watched awhile longer.  Mounting their bikes he blasted them with water again as they rode by.  He definitely seemed to have a sense of humor.  
     Of course all of that would have made great pictures...but I have it in my mind.  Maybe next year I'll go with a charged battery.

My one picture.

"My Cup Runneth Over"

     Perhaps I should retract what I said in a previous blog about Thais and goodbyes.  Every year the school plans a special farewell and this year was no exception.  My small suitcase, small enough to be a carry on, has a been a point of pride.  It may be time to get a larger one for all the gifts that are showered upon me at the farewell.
     After lunch hour all the students were seated in the gathering room arranged by classes.  The room fell quiet...unheard of...and I expected it was in anticipation of a dramatic moment.  Eventually the students resumed their typical chatter and still we waited.  A passing teacher explained that we were waiting for the custodian who'd gone home with key to the room in which the microphone was housed.  Big drama. 😶😶
      The program began with my farewell address to the students followed by a thank you addresses from the school by one of the teachers and a student representative.  Then the students presented me with cards they had made and the teachers with gifts from the school...yes, they did find a silk shirt, blue, big enough for me!
       If I have doubts about returning the out pouring of affection and gratitude fills my cup so full I think "how could I not?"  One of the sweetest moments didn't get pictured.  There are several 6th grade boys always want to be near me; Bird, Yai, Fedin, Abradeen and Kabeem.  The program was over but the 6th grades hadn't left yet when the boys came and gave me a huge, group hug!

Third Grade with their card which has a picture of each of the 25 students.

Students presenting me their cards.

Kindergarten gathers for a picture.

Going To Lunch

      With the day camp scheduled to end after the student's lunch the teachers decided yesterday would be a good day to take me to lunch.  Of course it was fun, of course there was much food, laughter and many pictures.  Thai people have a celebrative gene, they love to laugh and they like a good sport.
      A table for fifteen was reserved at a nice restaurant and the food was pre-ordered.  That's how a quintessential Thai custom that amuses me came into play.  Transportation was via cars and motorcycles...no one had a fifteen passenger van.  One student was still at school waiting for her father to retrieve her.   The first car, with three teachers and me, left while the others waited with the student.  Arriving at the restaurant we were shown to our table and seated.  As soon as we were seated the wait staff brought out the food and I was directed to begin eating.  Never mind that only four of the fifteen guests were present.  The others dribbled in over the next fifteen minutes.

At the table.

All on the count of 3.

Day Camp, Thai Style

     Why was I reminded of my Marine experience at todays Scout Day Camp?   There are five student teachers at school and they were in charge of Day Camp.  Scouting is huge in Thailand and has been incorporated into the schools since being embraced by a former king.  Early in the day there was a ceremony to honor him.  Scout uniforms are one of the five different uniforms...one for each day of the week...that students wear to school.   Marine experience? we'll get to that in a bit.
      Much of what happened would be expected at day camp.  There was singing, ceremony and teaching stations.  Each of the five student teachers, supported by a teacher, led a station.  The subjects were typical, first aid, etc.  After flag raising the students all went through a tiger's mouth into a short tunnel and emerged to have their face daubed with colored clay.  "Like a tiger be ready for adventure."....or something like that.
      Ok, let's go the Marines.   Students were divided into five groups for the day mixing gender and grades.  Each group, platoon?, was led by a 6th grade flag bearer...a bit like boot camp.    Flag raising featured the usual singing of the national anthem, and, traditionally off key because it's led by a student.  What was different was the teachers in front in their scout uniforms saluting the flag...yes, we did that in the Marines.  But, what really was reminiscent of the Marines was the inspection that followed the flag raising.  With the students standing at attention in formation the officers (teachers) accompanied by the flag bearers inspected every student individually.  They straightened ties, adjusted hats, etc. just like in the Marines.
       Well the tiger thing may be pushing the comparison a bit far and our tunnel was barbed wire with live machine gun fire 30 inches above ground...don't go sticking your head up.  Did we emerge tigers ready for adventure?  Who knows.
       The students were sent home after lunch and we went to the teacher's lunch.  Oh, but that reminded me of youth work days.  We couldn't leave the school until the last child had been picked up.  That brought back memories of the end of some youth event and one child's parents would be late for pick-up and I sooooooo wanted to go home.

Honoring the king.

Face daubing.

Colors.

Inspecting the troops.

Farewell Thai Style

     There is at least one way that life in Thailand reminds of life with farmers in South Dakota.  The habit of farmers to leave the coffee or dinner table with out any sort of farewell always amused me.  There would be a pause in the conversation and someone would just get up and walk away.  They'd feel right at home with this custom in Thailand.  At lunch with the teachers when one is finished she just gets up and walks away with no farewell.  It's not just teachers, I've observed that practice in many settings.
    Usually it doesn't bother me.  Today a departure made me sad. Phosee, the principal left for a seminar that lasts until Sunday in another city.  We didn't say goodbye.  Yesterday she told me she was going so that was no surprise.  She was at school briefly this morning but by lunch she was gone.
    Most school days we've talked during my breaks.  Her English is quite good and she is motivated to improve.  If I use a word she doesn't know she looks it up and seeks clarity about its meaning and usage.  She has been very welcoming to me. I appreciate her efforts to improve the school.
    Had we the opportunity to say 'goodbye' I would have thanked her for her kindness and complimented her on work on behalf of the school and its students.  We are connected on Facebook so I will use that medium to convey my message,  However, the teachers are taking me to a restaurant for a 'thank you' lunch tomorrow and will miss her in that setting, too.

Some of the teachers with whom I'll go to lunch.

With the principal.

     The next day.  It turned out that she hadn't left so I did get say "goodbye".

Personal Greetings at a Thai School.

       The typical Thai greeting when meeting someone is the wii...hand's pressed together held anywhere from chest to forehead high.  The height of the wii and the accompanying bow depends upon the status of the person being greeted.  Shaking hands is nor customary here and certainly not hugging.
       There is a distinct protocol about wii-ing at school.  Wii-ing is done upon first meeting another teacher in the morning.  Once I made the mistake of wii-ing a teacher the second time and she quickly pointed out that we'd already met in the office, thus the day's wii-ing was accomplished.  The teachers seem to have an infallible sense about having seen someone previously.
      The students find it natural to wii me.  However, they've been taught that 'farang', westerners, shake hands instead.  So the students often want to shake hands with me.  Naturally if they do it once they thanks that's cool so doing it multiple times is better yet. As I measure of self preservation...how many sticky hands do I really want to shake?...I've taught them to fist bump.  Of course one fist bump is never enough but that beats shaking hands.  Fist bumps have really caught on at school.
     It's very sweet to have four year olds shyly approach.  It's easy to read their thoughts "Do I dare begin a fist bump?"   When I give them a fist bump they run giggling to their friends who then come for their own bump.
     The teachers supplement the their school lunch with much additional food they bring; some from home and some from food carts.  There are always six to ten different dishes.  When they finish their lunch they bag the leftovers to send home with the poorest students.  Watching this procedure today I asked "How many of the students are poor?"  They answered "They all are."   Teachers visit every home before the beginning of school so they know.  There are three sisters that I know well, one in sixth grade and twins in fifth, who live with their family of 10 or 12 in one rented room.  The twins were a bit of a problem last year but they've matured into good students.  Their sixth grade sister, Mew, is one of the best students in class.

3rd grade mid-morning snack...there is no recess.

Snack break is new this year.

Thai Drivers

     When you read the title of this post did you expect a negative rant about how bad Thai drivers are?  Well this is not that.  There are many characteristics of drivers in Thailand I admire.  Much of it had to do with attitude.  Long time readers of this post may remember that I resolved to use lessons learned here when I returned home last year, which was partially successful.
     The main difference I observe is that these drivers never seem to take anything personally.  The minibus driver will zip down an open lane and 'shoe horn' between cars into the next lane.  The driver of the vehicle cut off never gets upset, no horn honking, fist shaking, or finger salute.  I've never seen a case of road rage and the only horn honking is a beep to warn another driver of something that driver may not see.  I can't remember the last time I heard a horn in Bangkok!
    Thai drivers are very responsible users of torn signals.  Seldom do they turn or make lane changes without a signal.  That's particularly important given the rules under which motorcycles operate.
    So, with this said, why does Thailand have one of the worst records in the world for vehicle accidents and deaths?   Drunken driving is endemic with lax laws and enforcement.  Use of seatbelts is lax.  Many drivers do not drive safely, following to closely, speeding, and other have dangerous habits.  Children ride in vehicles unrestrained.  Small motorcycles carry up to five people including infants and small children.  Many riders do not wear helmets.  Many motorcycles operate at night without lights.  Roads are clogged with three wheeled samlors both motorized and pushed by hand.  Speed limits are posted but not enforced.   Motorcycles are not expected to operate by the rules used for cars.  Professional drivers drive long hours relying on chemicals to stay awake.  Workers and others ride in pick-up and truck beds.
    Given all those realities it is a blessing that road rage is not an issue!

Transliteration.......

      All significant road signage in Thailand is posted both in Thai and English.  That is very helpful in navigating the country,  There is one problem however.  The transliteration from Thai to English does not always make audible sense.   For instance Silom Road is near the guesthouse I use in Bangkok.  Most American English speakers would say that with a short 'i' sound and quickly enough to sound like one syllable.  Thai say "See Lome" with the emphasis on "See".
     Bangkok has an ever expanding elevated railway called the "Skytrain".   Various lines of the Skytrain are named for the terminus stop.  One line runs to "On Nut".  It's pretty obvious how Americans would pronounce that.  However,  say it like it looks to Americans and Thai will give you a blank stare of non-comprehension.   Why?  Because they say "Own Newt."
    It causes me to wonder who had the job of transliteration...my guess is NOT an American.

Making Hay While The Sun Shines.

Never Explained........

     Pear's University (MFU) is entered by a two lane street that circles the campus and exits beside the entering street.  There are other exit/entrances for special use but the gates are normally locked  After the graduation festivities we piled into the family's SUV to go back to the resort.  In bumper to bumper traffic for awhile we turned off and followed a mini-van headed for a back gate.  The mini-van was waved through but the guard turned us back.
   Back to the bumper to bumper traffic we went and soon we were at a standstill in line.  There we sat for 45 minutes without moving.  We were beginning to think we'd spend the night.  Then a man came to our window and told us to go back to the gate where we'd been refused exit.  Making a U turn we sped back to the gate and were waved through.
   Why us?  "Did the man know you?" No."  "Did you bribe someone?"  "No."  "Why of all the vehicles in line did he choose us?"  "No  idea."  None of the other cars turned around but there was one in front of us at the gate that got waved aside.  Perhaps this is where one invokes "Don't look a gift horse in the mouth."
    Tracking days, months, years is a bit of a challenge.  Once when I was exiting an Alzheimer's unit I had to punch the current year to exit.  It too me thee tries!  The absent minded professor?  Perhaps one more attempt and they would have kept me.
    However, I do know that this is 2018.  Which leads to my question "Why did we just celebrate commencement for the class of 2016?"   There was a big banner on campus "Welcome Alumni of 2017".  So their commencement will be next year.  Perhaps MFU just got behind and never caught up and I'll never have an explanation.

All classes were in English but the diploma is in Thai.

Pear, parents and grandmother. 

This is not Argentina!

     One night in Chiang Rai, for dinner we went to the Chiang Rai Steakhouse.  It was NOT a 'white table cloth' restaurant!   A little bigger than a 'hole-in-the-wall' it had stools instead of chairs and metal tables.  It proudly proclaimed  "WE SERVE LOCAL BEEF".  That was all I needed to know..."No beef for me"...because I've seen the beef on the hoof.  Sometimes they're grazing around the houses on our street...Thai lawnmowers.  They are zebu, the sacred cows you see in pictures of India, tall and skinny.  I've NEVER had good beef in Thailand so I knew better than to try now with the sign giving me fair warning.
    I ordered spaghetti which was a good choice.  Pear's Dad had a steak and it didn't look good.  The spaghetti wasn't bad even though the sauce had both corn and carrots.
    When it was discovered that the Steakhouse didn't serve alcohol Pear's, parents took orders and went down the street to Seven-Eleven and bought beer.
    One Thai food treat I can't do is boiled corn on the cob COLD, with neither salt nor butter.

Pear's family minus Pear.

Fore!

    Back in the mid-nineties on my first trip to South East Asia since I'd been here in the 60s as a Marine, I flew into Bangkok, landing at the main airport, Don Mueang.  Since then it's become a regional airport with the opening of Suvarnabhumi Airport on the other side of Bangkok.   Now my flights to Bangkok always arrive in the middle of the night.
    But, all those years ago landed in daylight.  Imagine my surprise when I looked out the window as I landed and saw golfers playing golf on a course laid out between the runways.  Do you get a Mulligan if your ball hits an airplane?  
     When I flew to Chiang Rai, Friday, it was the first time in many years I'd used Don Mueang.  Would they still be playing golf between the runways?  Yes, there were, carts and all, playing golf.  It would have its advantages; no hills, no water hazards, and no sand traps.  Noise might be an issue.  

Sitting while teacher speaks...listening??????????..

Hill Tribes at Chiang Rai

     The Hill Tribes I visited at Chiang Rai, while living in traditional villages, mostly likely have been resettled from other places.  There were five different tribes each living in their own village; Karen, Akha, Kayor, Lu Mein-Yao and Lahu.  Normally they would inhabit different areas.  It is likely that the Karen are refugees from nearby Myanmar.  The Akha are native to Thailand originally from the highlands and there are about 80,000 in the country.  They are seen in native dress in the night markets of Bangkok selling hand made items.
    It appears that the tribes I visited are on a kind of reservation.  If the Karen are refugees they are likely restricted to their village.  In the Karen village most of the women I saw are "long neck" wearing heavy brass rings around their necks.  These rings depress their collar bones when wearing is begun as adolescents making their necks appear long.  It was originally considered beautiful but the custom likely would have disappeared by now if it were not for tourist interest.
     Most of the Karen houses have a front porch on which the woman sits and weaves.  The weavings are displayed for sale and as people walk by they can purchase weavings.  The women often offer to pose for pictures.
     In each village the people are dressed in their native attire and sell their handicrafts. I visited the Karen last and was immediately struck by a difference.  In the preceding villages there was 'hard sell' as the wares were displayed in front of their houses "you buy, you buy..."  But in the Karen village the women sat on their front porch quietly weaving returning smile for smile.
     As a part of the tour with Pear's, family we visited the villages.  There was time for little shopping, so, with an unscheduled morning because my flight time was 1:45 pm I went back expressly to shop. The curmudgeonette has become addicted to silk scarves and the Karen were weaving with silk.  While the village set up feels a bit contrived at the same time buying directly from the weavers must have some positive impact on them.

The baby was more interested in me than the camera.

Karen village.

Karen home.

Sign at entrance to the villages.

Graduation...surprise!

    Well, when all was said and done, as they say, I didn't actually get to commencement.  Last night after dinner the family said a taxi would pick me up at 10:30 a.m., to bring me to the university (MFU) but the family must go early. They would meet me when I arrived at MFU.
   When I arrived people were lining up around the horseshoe drive around the perimeter of the campus mall.  Lining the drive sitting closest to the pavement were undergraduates in uniform. Behind them were people, including me, sitting in the grass waiting something???  Maybe a parade of graduates?  I didn't know.  After waiting awhile a marshal came and told me I must put my feet behind me...Thai have a big thing about feet.  Shortly seven of the biggest, new Mercedes I have ever seen come following a half dozen police cars (Accords and Camrys) in turn followed by a number of other fancy vehicles.  All vehicles in Thailand have deeply tinted windows so nothing of the occupants could be seen.  The crowd bowed and wii-ed as the motorcade passed.  When the last car passed everyone stood up and began moving away.
   Puzzled I said "What was that about?"   Do you want to guess?  I was clueless...no surprise there!  The princess, the late King's daughter had finished handing out the diplomas and she had just passed by.  Probably as close as I'll ever get to royalty and I'd been oblivious...not that it matters much to me.
   That's when I realized that I wasn't going to witness commencement...it was already over.  My guess is that with 2000 graduates seating was limited to a few members of immediate family.  Given the reality of Thai sensibilities I cannot ask.  Any questions from me about it would likely be read as disappointment or disapproval and put the family in an awkward position.  It would have been fun to witness but perhaps very tedious with 2000 graduates receiving diplomas.
   Pear and her family were tickled that I was here and I've had a great time with them.  That's what matters.  They are 'salt of the earth' folks with whom I bonded long ago and this has certainly deepened the connection.  Next week I hope to see the 'home stay' development Pear has facilitated in their family compound.  
   I'll have more to say about the day in a subsequent blog.

Looking across the pond and up the mall.

Waiting the princess.

With the graduate.

Pear with mother, father and grandmother.

Picture Op...missed!

      While I've been staying here in Chiang Rai each evening I've gone to dinner with the family.  Two nights ago I bought dinner for eight at a very nice "table cloth" restaurant.  The total bill you ask?  $66.00.  Yes, I'm the last of the big spenders.
      Last night when they picked me up for dinner I thought "should I bring my camera?"  I decided not to because we were just going to dinner.  BIG MISTAKE!.  Just as we were parking for dinner, Pear, the graduate called and said she wanted her picture with me.  We got back in their SUV (Chevy) and drove to the university campus.  Approach to the campus is by a long, winding, tree lined drive...half a mile at least.  At the top of the drive the vista opens to a huge campus, grass mall...20 acres?...at the foot is a pond and up the grassy slope buildings forming a U around the end of the mall.  The mall was filled with the 2000 graduates in their red academic gowns accompanied by their families.  With the aid of cell phone contact we found Pear, and had pictures taken while her parents slowly circulated the campus to pick us up again.
      'Always take the camera' is my usual mantra because it always seems if I don't have it I wish I did.  How true!
      This is graduation for the Class of 2016.  Interesting that it occurs in 2018!

Tourist Behavior

      In the 1950s The Ugly American was both a popular book and concept.  Americans beginning to travel abroad often did not bring their best manners and needlessly violated the cultural norms of the places they visited.  Some still do.
    In Thailand it's now the Chinese who often offend.  Many Chinese are now affluent enough to afford cheap group tours to Thailand, in fact millions will visit this year.  Unsophisticated in the nuances of a foreign culture they often cause offense.  It's bad enough that the government is sponsoring educational events to help ameliorate the problem.  In some establishments signs are posted, in Chinese of course, "NO CHINESE ALLOWED".  In the resort where I'd staying signs are posted in Chinese and English "KEEP SILENCE.''  I find it bit ironic because Thai are often very loud.

Sign in the hallway and café,

Buddhist Day, Part 2.

      We spent and hour or so at the Buddhist Center then piled into our van going I knew not where.  Riding comfortably in a back seat I was happy to go where others planned.  To my happy surprise we went to a temple.  Now, any of you who may have read previous blogs know that I'm a bit cynical about visiting Buddhist temples.  Go anywhere in Thailand and the first thing a guest is shown is a temple so I've seen dozens. But, this is one I wanted to see.  I'd seen pictures of it but did not see it on my previous trip to Chiang Rai.
      So what is so special about this temple?  It's alabaster, gleaming white!  Thai nationals enter free but it cost me 50B, about $1.75.  Inside is unusually small and very ordinary, yet, wandering guards were strictly enforcing the rule of no pictures..  It's the outside that people come to see and there were huge crowds.
      It's surrounded by commercial establishments meant to capture visitors money.  This is true of every site in Thailand that draws crowds,   I tease my Thai teacher friends that Thai people love three things; eating, shopping and sleeping.  And, Buddhist Thai, love their temples.  In my brief commute to school I pass at least fourteen temples ancient and modern,

The temple from a distance.

Close up.

Chedi by the temple.

Sculpture in front of the temple.

Bhuddist Day, Part 1.

      Of  course we couldn't do two days of touring with out visiting a temple.  However, this is one I actually wanted to see.  More about that later.  First a bit about the first stop which came before the temple.
     Leaving the resort about 8:00 am we drove a half hour to a Buddhist center of some kind. It was a sprawling complex but with no temple per se.  It appears to be the place of a young charismatic Buddhist monk.  He met us on arrival and conducted us to meeting hall with all the 'congregation' sitting cross legged on the floor in front of him.  The 'liturgy' lasted about a half hour and included chanting, bowing and a homily,  Apparently the monk has a sense of humor because the congregation was laughing.  It concluded with sale of his book and tee shirt.  After the liturgy we wondered the grounds a bit before heading off to our next stop.  Yes, I was the only non-Buddhist in the group.

Posted at the Buddhist Center. 

Caricature of the monk. 

Walkway of lanterns.

Statue of Lincoln at the Center with no sign telling anything about him.

The Life Of A Tourist!

     The van picked us up for sight seeing at 8:30 and brought us back at 5:00.  We visited four place; an outdoor museum, (think Bygdoy by Oslo) hill tribe villages, a tea plantation and the former queen's summer home and horticultural gardens,  All except the tea plantation required much walking and almost none of it level.  My life in Ayutthaya offers almost no opportunity to walk so this was a good antidote...glad I climb those condo steps at home.
     I'll fill in the details of these sites when I have more time.  We're scheduled for a another day of sight seeing tomorrow. It's fun just to go along for the ride.  No decisions to make, nothing to worry about...go just go where I'm taken and see what's to be seen.

The largest gong I've ever seen.

T

I joined the band pounding wooden tubes on wood for rhythm and sound. 

To Chiang Rai

      The trip I'm about to take needs some historical context.  Eight years ago when I was here teaching for the second time I was housed in a tiny house with another American volunteer.  The house was one of several in a family compound.  The daughter of the leading family in that com  pound, Pear, was in junior high.  Pear was very motivated to learn English so she and I spent much time talking.  On subsequent trips to Ayutthaya I would make contact with her family and with Pear.  For several years we've been Facebook friends.
     Pear attended a university in Chiang Rai, Thailand and finished classes almost a year ago.  This university does all instruction in English so it is very international.  On Monday, February 12, commencement exercises will be held for Pear's graduating class and I'm going to attend.
    Fifteen of Pear's family will be there.  We are all staying in the same resort.  They asked me to arrive on Friday because they have reserved a van for sight seeing on Saturday and Sunday.
   Chiang Rai is Thailand's northern most city located in the golden triangle of Myanmar, Laos and Thailand.  It was once famous for its drug trade.  It is about 400 miles north of Bangkok and very scenic.  It's about and hour and half flight from Bangkok's northern airport...the old one with a golf course laid out between the runways which now serves regional flights.
   After I finish teaching tomorrow (Friday) I'll take the mini bus to the airport.  Pear and I have talked for years about my attendance at her graduation.  Thai universities do not set their academic calendars very far in advance.  All Peat could tell me until a few weeks ago is that graduation would be in February.  However, with my plans to be here for the month that's all I needed to know. Yes, of course I'm excited...it promises to be a fun adventure,

Third grade + geezer.

Fifth grade + geezer.

No Longer Exotic!

    Now, teaching here for the tenth year, which followed many previous trips to South East Asia, what once seemed exotic and unusual now seems familiar.  Streets clogged with small motorcycles, a variety of three wheeled contraptions, food stalls popping up the usual places with new ones grabbing available roadside space, temples old and new, livestock roaming the neighborhood, Muslim call to prayer,  Buddhist chanting from the temple, acres of historic ruins, spirit houses in the yards, dogs everywhere, but almost never a car horn honking, trucks slowly cruising the streets with loudspeakers blasting their wares. don't occasion a second glance.  Think about writing what is exotic about your neighborhood for somebody far away...what would you say?  Perhaps one just has to see it.
    Teaching is a bit like that, too.  In my tenth year. the epitome of routine.  It seems to go well, the hour flows, but, what once seemed strange is now routine.
    Four students teachers are spending Wednesdays at school and will be here full time next year.  Three of them reached out to me today, striking up conversation and working their English. Increasingly English is spoken at our teacher's lunch.  The 4th student teacher majored in English but has little interest in speaking with me.
   Made a foray to Tesco, the English supermarket, to do a little clothes shopping.  The reality of clothing size was brought home to me when I picked up some shorts marked extra large and saw they were 36" waist.  :)   Nevertheless I had some modest success.

Three year olds dressed up.

My school.

Student teachers in white shirts.