Arising at 3:30am and getting in a taxi at 4:30 got us to the airport on time. No gridlock at that time of the day. Rain was moving in as we were moving out. Now we'er between planes in Schipol....which has some of the longest walks and longest taxis after landing.
We were very fortunate in Bucharest to have a hotel in the historical district. If anyone is contemplating a trip to Romania we heartily recommend the Rembrandt Hotel. Service beyond anything we've ever experienced and their prices were very reasonable...good breakfast too.
So, here I sit in Schipol with constant foot trafffic going past...where did they come from and where are the all going?...I feel the need to write some thing profound becasue 30 min. on this commputer cost 6euro. but it is too early to be profound.
I'll post pictures from home so until then....so long...I will be landing in Mpls in a couple of hours...
Friday, May 18, 2007
Thursday, May 17, 2007
Happy Syttende Mai!
Joanne and I share about an 8 degree comfort range, below 72 I get cold and above 80 she gets crabby. :) The temps during our trip have stayed in our comfort range with beautiful blue sky. The next 4 days' forecast for Bucharest is for rain. We feel blessed!
PS. We have one of two rooms on the 8th floor of our hotel. The elevator is literally 3'X3'...I measured....not for the claustrophobic! but it's modern and very efficient. We have nice balcony facing west and we can see the huge "People's Place" over the rooftops of other buildings. A grandprix auto race is scheduled to begin around the Palace tomorrow.
PS. We have one of two rooms on the 8th floor of our hotel. The elevator is literally 3'X3'...I measured....not for the claustrophobic! but it's modern and very efficient. We have nice balcony facing west and we can see the huge "People's Place" over the rooftops of other buildings. A grandprix auto race is scheduled to begin around the Palace tomorrow.
Two Hot Chocolates and then...
Guided by a helpful map we did a morning walking tour of the historic Lipscani district where our wonderful Rembrandt Hotel is located. We visited six Orthodox churches five of which were having Ascension Day services. Their worship is certainly multi-sensual compared with our cerebral Lutheran worship. It was a treat to join the worshippers even though we could not understand the words. We spent over an hour in one service mesmerized by the music as cantor and priest sang antiphonally with an all male choir in the balcony. All the music was acappella(you know, singing without instruments, however you spell it). The wonderful voices would be welcomed by any Lutheran college choir director. Sometimes they sang in four parts and some times in eight. We got incensed by the priest making us feel a part of the worship. Those marvelous voices will reverberate in our memories for time to come.
After we'd feasted on as many architectural sights as we could absorb in one morning we sat at an outdoor cafe and ordered hot chocolate with ice cream. Served in glasses the rich European chocolate made our hot cocoa at home seem insipid. As I sat smugly enjoying my chocolate I glanced up to see an elderly woman surreptitiously take the bread from a basket that the waitress was about to buss away. Unseen by the waitress she quickly added some mustard and with a big smile slipped away with her bounty. She'd been fed with the crumbs from the table and I suddenly did not feel so smug. Reflecting on the worship we'd experienced I thought, "the essence of worship (religion) is action on behalf of others."
And, so, we prepare to take our leave. Tomorrow we will be home but Romania will always have a place in our hearts. Perhaps this is the honeymoon which we never really had, except for a quick weekend in Sioux City. I have to say that Romania is much more romantic than Sioux City. I'm sad to leave but I'm also ready to be home!
After we'd feasted on as many architectural sights as we could absorb in one morning we sat at an outdoor cafe and ordered hot chocolate with ice cream. Served in glasses the rich European chocolate made our hot cocoa at home seem insipid. As I sat smugly enjoying my chocolate I glanced up to see an elderly woman surreptitiously take the bread from a basket that the waitress was about to buss away. Unseen by the waitress she quickly added some mustard and with a big smile slipped away with her bounty. She'd been fed with the crumbs from the table and I suddenly did not feel so smug. Reflecting on the worship we'd experienced I thought, "the essence of worship (religion) is action on behalf of others."
And, so, we prepare to take our leave. Tomorrow we will be home but Romania will always have a place in our hearts. Perhaps this is the honeymoon which we never really had, except for a quick weekend in Sioux City. I have to say that Romania is much more romantic than Sioux City. I'm sad to leave but I'm also ready to be home!
Two Corrections
Mistakes abound; #1. I both misspelled and mistranslated a place in which we had dinner in Bucharest. It should be Carul cu Bere and translated 'The Beer Cart'. Our self directed walking map for the historical district says its from 1878 and "built in Gothic style, (it) has the atmosphere of a German beer house, adorned with iron work and wall painting." #2. My second mistake was misspelling the name of the Lutheran trivia character. It should be spelled Teutsch. Two cups of coffee to the first person to identify him. I've never mastered English spelling so it is no wonder I have trouble with Romanian.
Wednesday, May 16, 2007
Two Geezers Navigate Bucharest
Between Sighisoara and Sibiu we turned off to visit the fortress church at Breitan. This church has a room in which couples wanting a divorce were locked for two weeks to think things over. Perhaps the threat of confinement was enough to dissuade...one can only speculate about the two weeks for those so confined. I'm proud to say that this self-directed elder hostel managed a week on the road without a cross word. And that comes after navigating Bucharest with out map and only the most rudimentary signage. It was a relief to surrender the car and let the taxi driver take over. Something about trying to navigate while in gridlocked traffic without maps or signs...fortunately the sun was shining so I could keep my directions straight. I imagine the day not far when Bucharest is locked in 24 hour gridlock and no one can move.
Driving the road, autobahn they call it, from Pitesti to Bucharest was a trip. As I was passing slow moving trucks cars would roar up behind me, blink their lights, honk their horn, and if I still wasn't fast enough clearning their lane they'd turn on their siren. Ah, such anxiety. Perhaps you can imagine how effective they were in influencing my behavior.
Have I said, "Life is Good"? It is.
Driving the road, autobahn they call it, from Pitesti to Bucharest was a trip. As I was passing slow moving trucks cars would roar up behind me, blink their lights, honk their horn, and if I still wasn't fast enough clearning their lane they'd turn on their siren. Ah, such anxiety. Perhaps you can imagine how effective they were in influencing my behavior.
Have I said, "Life is Good"? It is.
Again, The Kindness of Stangers
We left dreamy Sibiu for the drive back to Bucharest about 9am. At the halfway point we stopped for gas in the industrial city of Pitesti. At the station we asked for directions to Bucharest thinking we'd take a side road that would lead us closer to the airport where we were to return the car. The station attendant did not speak English but a young customer spoke up to tell us the road we intended was very bad. We asked him how to find the main road and he told us to follow him. About a half hour later after leading us through the city, twists, turns, backstreets, etc. he stopped and said the highway was just around the next corner, refused $$, shook our hands and drove away.
Arriving at our hotel in Bucharest, the one left a week ago, we were talking to the manager, Anna, about our trip. Joanne mentioned 'internet' and Anna volunteered the use of the hotel's laptop...so here I sit in our room doing my blog.
Parker Palmer reflects on the one's experience of the world; a hostile place in which one does battle or essentially a place of life and kindness...my experience is the later.
Arriving at our hotel in Bucharest, the one left a week ago, we were talking to the manager, Anna, about our trip. Joanne mentioned 'internet' and Anna volunteered the use of the hotel's laptop...so here I sit in our room doing my blog.
Parker Palmer reflects on the one's experience of the world; a hostile place in which one does battle or essentially a place of life and kindness...my experience is the later.
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
We will, we will Rock You...
The hand dandy Lonely Planet travel guide said, "Author's Pick" for eating is the 'Pizzeria'. It also said to sit facing the windows to avoid the color schemes used for decoration and gaze out over the rooftops of medieval lowertown. Good advice twice because I had the best lasagna of my life, accompanied by a fine bottle of Feteasca Neagra, watching the sun set on the distant mountains and the tile roofs below. These tile roofs are festooned with 'eye windows' apparently unique in the world. A fresh breeze blew in the window giving us a smoke free environment. (It seems everyone smokes incessantly in Romania.) The Pizzeria is in the city wall, with vaulted ceilings with frescoes and walls three feet thick. Reife's in Davenport may have enjoyed the colors but I didn't find them offensive. So there we were, good wind, good food, good time together when the Romanian music ended and what did we hear but, "We will, we will Rock You...."
The City's Most Luxurious
We're staying in Hotel Imparatual Romanilor, which our guidebook says is the city's most luxurious. It is nice and the free massage a treat. Antique lovers would like the hotel because it is furnished with antiques from many different eras. It opened in 1555 as a restaurant and the dinning room features a ceiling of sliding mirrors....sure beats Holiday Inn or the cheap guesthouse I use in Asia and the Romanian price is very reasonable by our standards.
Any reader interested in an off the track vacation should consider Romania. It has great natural beauty, endless history, beaches (which we'll not see) friendly people and great prices.
Any reader interested in an off the track vacation should consider Romania. It has great natural beauty, endless history, beaches (which we'll not see) friendly people and great prices.
A Little Lutheran Trivia
I'm beginning to feel 'old building fatigue' even as I once said, "I never need to see another Buddhist temple. But we dutifully visited the local Lutheran cathedral and also the Orthodox cathedral, which made the the Lutheran one look plain. A little Lutheran trivia for you; Who was Teusch? Two cups of coffee for the first right answer.
Following the revolution in 1988 most of the Germans (Saxons) went to Germany. As Romanians have moved into take their places there has been a boom in building Orthodox churches. We've seen several being built.
Sibiu is a worth choice for the European Cultural Capital of 2007.
Following the revolution in 1988 most of the Germans (Saxons) went to Germany. As Romanians have moved into take their places there has been a boom in building Orthodox churches. We've seen several being built.
Sibiu is a worth choice for the European Cultural Capital of 2007.
Monday, May 14, 2007
2007 European Heritage City
After a delightful stay in Sighoasora we motored to Sibiu, the 2007 Euopean Cultural Capital. We took a side trip to Breiten to see a prime example of a fortified church. This church was circled by four walls to use as a fortress whne the communityu was attacked. It is in spendid condition. As good as seeing the church was the detour down and back road through famrs and villages.
I thought I worked hard growing up on a farm. When I saw farmers cutting hay with a sycthe, raking hay fields by hand, and hand hoeing thier fields I decided I did not have it so bad. We see a few tractors, a 1960's model IHC that I'd didn't recognize was parked behind our hostel in Sighoasora, but we see 50 horse carts for every tractor. We've only seen one herd of water buffalo but the are supposed to be common, too.
Our hotel is on the historic city sqyare of Sibiu and according to the guide book the best location in the city. It's alos very nice. Way to go Orbitz! the self-directed elder hosteler's friend. The hotel offers free massage so we're going to check that out.
We see very little racial diversity. I don't think we've seen and Indian since Paris and very few blacks or Asians. The oppressed minority here are the Roma (Gypsies) though we haven't seen many of them either.
I thought I worked hard growing up on a farm. When I saw farmers cutting hay with a sycthe, raking hay fields by hand, and hand hoeing thier fields I decided I did not have it so bad. We see a few tractors, a 1960's model IHC that I'd didn't recognize was parked behind our hostel in Sighoasora, but we see 50 horse carts for every tractor. We've only seen one herd of water buffalo but the are supposed to be common, too.
Our hotel is on the historic city sqyare of Sibiu and according to the guide book the best location in the city. It's alos very nice. Way to go Orbitz! the self-directed elder hosteler's friend. The hotel offers free massage so we're going to check that out.
We see very little racial diversity. I don't think we've seen and Indian since Paris and very few blacks or Asians. The oppressed minority here are the Roma (Gypsies) though we haven't seen many of them either.
Sunday, May 13, 2007
10,000 Teeny Boppers
This may be an interesting post. After twice losing my entire new blog to cyberneverland at a cafe yesterday I'm not working on the guest house computer. For some reason it brings up my blog page in Korean...yes, I am in Romania....Sighisoara, a downscale place from Brasov with more spectacular walled city.
Brasov has the black church, so called because the outside walls were blackened by fire centuries ago. Not much left of the walls but some beautiful walking space/city center with a clock tower from 1460. Our hotel was in the historic quarter and 100yrs old so quite new...good spot, good service.
Leaving Brasov we drove to Daracula's castle (Vlad the Impaler....a cup of coffee to anyone who can tell me the details of impaling.) which is Romania's #1 tourist stop, as the 10,000 teeny boppers present can attest. We were invited into a private tour with a family of 3 from Cleveland. Joanne's scepticism vanished and she, too, was very glad we stopped.
The drive to Sighisoara was a delightful ramble through mountains and countryside. I've been warned not so speed so we tool along at the speed limit which every other conveyance, other than horse carts, whip around us no matter the passing situations. I've made many Dacia owners happy because for once they could pass someone.
Joanne thought we were going to rough it when I said he had a hostel, the only place I could find online, but its very nice...and a comfortable walk from the hill on which the wall, towers, and historical churches stand...two of which are Lutheran.
Sighisoara was once mostly Saxon (German). Now of 25,000 people only 500 are Saxon and only 200 of them are pure. The old Saxon cemetery is a beautiful place with huge trees. beautiful flowers and the songs of birds.
The poet may have said, "What is so rare as a day in June?" but had he been here he would have said "May". Cloudless sky, slight breeze, 80 degrees....
There is a Lutheran Church on the highest point of the old walled city...Lutheran since the reformation. To get to it there is a covered staircase of 176 steps...6steps, landing, 6steps, landing, and so on...designed to remind climbers that God rested on the 7th day....sermon illustration anyone? Next to the church is the city high school. The church guide said no problem for the students but some of the teachers are 60 years old. Handicapped access does not exist in Romania. We will go to a concert...classical...tonight.
If it weren't for the Romanian steps I'd have gained 50 lbs. by now. We were served the traditional Romanian brandy last night after our waitress forgot Joanne's salad....I'd take the brandy over the salad any day. In Brasov we had pickled mushrooms....the waiter talked to fast for me to follow...if the taste didn't get the texture did!
I have I told you that we're having a grand time? Well we are as we do our self guided elder hostel.
Brasov has the black church, so called because the outside walls were blackened by fire centuries ago. Not much left of the walls but some beautiful walking space/city center with a clock tower from 1460. Our hotel was in the historic quarter and 100yrs old so quite new...good spot, good service.
Leaving Brasov we drove to Daracula's castle (Vlad the Impaler....a cup of coffee to anyone who can tell me the details of impaling.) which is Romania's #1 tourist stop, as the 10,000 teeny boppers present can attest. We were invited into a private tour with a family of 3 from Cleveland. Joanne's scepticism vanished and she, too, was very glad we stopped.
The drive to Sighisoara was a delightful ramble through mountains and countryside. I've been warned not so speed so we tool along at the speed limit which every other conveyance, other than horse carts, whip around us no matter the passing situations. I've made many Dacia owners happy because for once they could pass someone.
Joanne thought we were going to rough it when I said he had a hostel, the only place I could find online, but its very nice...and a comfortable walk from the hill on which the wall, towers, and historical churches stand...two of which are Lutheran.
Sighisoara was once mostly Saxon (German). Now of 25,000 people only 500 are Saxon and only 200 of them are pure. The old Saxon cemetery is a beautiful place with huge trees. beautiful flowers and the songs of birds.
The poet may have said, "What is so rare as a day in June?" but had he been here he would have said "May". Cloudless sky, slight breeze, 80 degrees....
There is a Lutheran Church on the highest point of the old walled city...Lutheran since the reformation. To get to it there is a covered staircase of 176 steps...6steps, landing, 6steps, landing, and so on...designed to remind climbers that God rested on the 7th day....sermon illustration anyone? Next to the church is the city high school. The church guide said no problem for the students but some of the teachers are 60 years old. Handicapped access does not exist in Romania. We will go to a concert...classical...tonight.
If it weren't for the Romanian steps I'd have gained 50 lbs. by now. We were served the traditional Romanian brandy last night after our waitress forgot Joanne's salad....I'd take the brandy over the salad any day. In Brasov we had pickled mushrooms....the waiter talked to fast for me to follow...if the taste didn't get the texture did!
I have I told you that we're having a grand time? Well we are as we do our self guided elder hostel.
Saturday, May 12, 2007
Friday, May 11, 2007
A Mighty Fortress
After renting our car (roller skate?) in Bucharest we headed north into the mountains. Our first stop was Sinai (they spell Siniai) to visit the Castle of King Carol I., who, incidentally died one year after its completion so there you have a sermon illustration for "bigger barns". As we walked up the pathway through the forest to the castle we could hear strains of a flute wafting through the trees. Walking farther we recognized the tune of "A Mighty Fortress". How did he know we are Lutheran? The sincere looks, the looking at our shoes, the sense of guilt for having so much fun in Romania? The castle/palace was worth the time.
Last night in Bucharest our hotel got us a reserved table at Cara Ru Bere, translated House Of Beer. I know I don't get out much but I'd never seen anything like that! Vaulted painted, ceilings, three floors of serving, beer in 300ml, 500ml, and 1000ml steins and live entertainment. Two couples who danced traditional Romanian, modern ballroom and jitterbug. Food was great, beer plentiful, entertainment fum and the ambiance superb...and one block from our hotel.
Did I tell you we're in Brasov? We're in a classic old hotel in the historic quarter about 4 blocks from the famous Black Church, so called because of a fire. Getting here was a trip. Imagine navigating through Detroit without a may to enter a medieval city not designed to cars with the barest map....yet Joanne pulled it off. We parked about 4 blocks away, walked to the hotel, registered and the clerk walked back with us to the car. Then we learned, from her, never to leave our baggage in the car...even on a busy street in broad daylight. Lucky and again the beneficiary of exceptionally helpful hotel staff!
I tend to travel in my 'happy space' ignoring the others around me on airplanes, etc. Joanne, on the other hand is making friends across the continent: a young man from Uganda, who graduated from college in Toronto now on his way back to run a business in Africa; a government employee from Romania on the flight to Bucharest, etc.
Last night in Bucharest our hotel got us a reserved table at Cara Ru Bere, translated House Of Beer. I know I don't get out much but I'd never seen anything like that! Vaulted painted, ceilings, three floors of serving, beer in 300ml, 500ml, and 1000ml steins and live entertainment. Two couples who danced traditional Romanian, modern ballroom and jitterbug. Food was great, beer plentiful, entertainment fum and the ambiance superb...and one block from our hotel.
Did I tell you we're in Brasov? We're in a classic old hotel in the historic quarter about 4 blocks from the famous Black Church, so called because of a fire. Getting here was a trip. Imagine navigating through Detroit without a may to enter a medieval city not designed to cars with the barest map....yet Joanne pulled it off. We parked about 4 blocks away, walked to the hotel, registered and the clerk walked back with us to the car. Then we learned, from her, never to leave our baggage in the car...even on a busy street in broad daylight. Lucky and again the beneficiary of exceptionally helpful hotel staff!
I tend to travel in my 'happy space' ignoring the others around me on airplanes, etc. Joanne, on the other hand is making friends across the continent: a young man from Uganda, who graduated from college in Toronto now on his way back to run a business in Africa; a government employee from Romania on the flight to Bucharest, etc.
Thursday, May 10, 2007
Sometimes the luck is good!
Looking to reserve a hotel in Bucharest I went to Expedia.com. I found the Rembrandt in the historical section and signed on. Just before we left Mpls I found it mentioned in the National Geographic Traveler as a great place to stay. Boy is that true! Great room 25' X 30', super breakfast, good price and the most helpful staff I've ever experienced who speak flawless English. It's a little boutique hotel owned by the Dutch, thus the name , in a historic bank building.
The taxi ride in the from the airport was a triiiiiiippp!!! Wildest thing since the airport to Hanoi trip in Vietnam. That driver could really make his ancient Dacia go even with the un-synchronized transmission. Drove the wrong side of the road an played chicken with the oncoming traffic. I glanced over at Joanne and she was looking out the side window, knuckles white... When the driver heard us debating the exchange rate he opened his newspaper as he drove and point out the exchange rate to us. (I have synapse missing in my brain when it comes doing currency conversion. So now I just ask Joanne.) He'd do great on the NASCAR circuit! Way better than an amusement park! Adrenalin time!
Rick & Carolyn Nelson, Rick's the son of Audrey Nelson from St. James, joined us for dinner last night. What a blast. We went to a traditional Romanian restaurant near our hotel as recommend by the hotel staff. No fear of bird flu here with alive chickens, ducks, geese, etc. enclosed at the entrance. It was a big place with seating at picnic style tables and live band featuring traditional dancers. I have a picture to prove that I joined the dancers on stage....recruited by pretty girl who left to find another recruit soon after she'd received her tip and I found myself in a circle dance between to Romanian guys. The food was traditional...Joanne had the national cornmeal mush with cabbage rolls and I had Carpathian bear...tasted just like chicken...no actually more like beef. Had some wonderful wine which the waiter said could only be found in Romania. Would someone please ask Jim Verlautz if it is true that Feteasca Neagra can only be found in Romania?
This morning we walked to the Palace of the People and had a tour. It's the building that Ceausesca had built in 1982, second only in size to the Pentagon. 16% of Bucharest was bulldozed for it leaving 80,000 people homeless. One of the effects today is that the dogs displaced went wild so that there are huge packs on the outskirts of town today. 3 million cubic meters of marble, all from Romania, was used, 5000 tons of crystal for chandeliers, and it is 365,000 cubic meters in size. Parliament meets in it and it is used for conferences but much of it is empty. We saw one drape that weighed 2000lbs.
This afternoon we visited a villages museum which is a park with villages re-constructed from the various areas of Romania. Could have been a lot worse. Weather is superb...perhaps 80 and sunny!
I can see why Bucharest is called little Paris. Wonderful avenues, beautiful architectural gems, where they haven't been bulldozed for ugly Communist construction. Unfortunately the traffic is very bad. Seven yeas ago, no cars, and today....constant traffic jams.
The taxi ride in the from the airport was a triiiiiiippp!!! Wildest thing since the airport to Hanoi trip in Vietnam. That driver could really make his ancient Dacia go even with the un-synchronized transmission. Drove the wrong side of the road an played chicken with the oncoming traffic. I glanced over at Joanne and she was looking out the side window, knuckles white... When the driver heard us debating the exchange rate he opened his newspaper as he drove and point out the exchange rate to us. (I have synapse missing in my brain when it comes doing currency conversion. So now I just ask Joanne.) He'd do great on the NASCAR circuit! Way better than an amusement park! Adrenalin time!
Rick & Carolyn Nelson, Rick's the son of Audrey Nelson from St. James, joined us for dinner last night. What a blast. We went to a traditional Romanian restaurant near our hotel as recommend by the hotel staff. No fear of bird flu here with alive chickens, ducks, geese, etc. enclosed at the entrance. It was a big place with seating at picnic style tables and live band featuring traditional dancers. I have a picture to prove that I joined the dancers on stage....recruited by pretty girl who left to find another recruit soon after she'd received her tip and I found myself in a circle dance between to Romanian guys. The food was traditional...Joanne had the national cornmeal mush with cabbage rolls and I had Carpathian bear...tasted just like chicken...no actually more like beef. Had some wonderful wine which the waiter said could only be found in Romania. Would someone please ask Jim Verlautz if it is true that Feteasca Neagra can only be found in Romania?
This morning we walked to the Palace of the People and had a tour. It's the building that Ceausesca had built in 1982, second only in size to the Pentagon. 16% of Bucharest was bulldozed for it leaving 80,000 people homeless. One of the effects today is that the dogs displaced went wild so that there are huge packs on the outskirts of town today. 3 million cubic meters of marble, all from Romania, was used, 5000 tons of crystal for chandeliers, and it is 365,000 cubic meters in size. Parliament meets in it and it is used for conferences but much of it is empty. We saw one drape that weighed 2000lbs.
This afternoon we visited a villages museum which is a park with villages re-constructed from the various areas of Romania. Could have been a lot worse. Weather is superb...perhaps 80 and sunny!
I can see why Bucharest is called little Paris. Wonderful avenues, beautiful architectural gems, where they haven't been bulldozed for ugly Communist construction. Unfortunately the traffic is very bad. Seven yeas ago, no cars, and today....constant traffic jams.
Wednesday, May 9, 2007
In Tansit
We're at Schipol on our way to Bucharest. Had a wonderful three days in Paris...a truly magical city. Never did get my French passport stamp cuz of Euro deal.. Joanne last flew into Paris 50 years ago from Fankfurt. She wondered why they handed her a scarf in the airport and then she discovered it was an open cockpit plane.
Surprises in Paris: Friendly people, use of English, how walkable the city, that the Eiffel Tower is in the middle of the city, that all sidwalk cafe seats face the sidewalk, very little body piercing(at least visible), the city view from Montemarte, the size of Louvre, Mona's petit, the cost!, little adventure because everything's so easy, no passport check at the airport arrival, owners don't clean up after thier dogs........opn to Romania.
Surprises in Paris: Friendly people, use of English, how walkable the city, that the Eiffel Tower is in the middle of the city, that all sidwalk cafe seats face the sidewalk, very little body piercing(at least visible), the city view from Montemarte, the size of Louvre, Mona's petit, the cost!, little adventure because everything's so easy, no passport check at the airport arrival, owners don't clean up after thier dogs........opn to Romania.
Tuesday, May 8, 2007
Mystery Revealed
After centuries of mystery it has finally been revealed why Mona Lisa has such a tight lipped smile. As it turns out she has piece of spinach caught in her teeth about which she's self conscious.
Today we visited Montemarte, the highest point in Paris, and the Basilica of the Sacred Heart. Novenas 9 Euro. Beautiful panaroma of Paris once I managed to drag Joanne away from Pigalle. Quite different ambiance at this end of Paris. Don't know that I've ever seen such a city panorma any where in my travels.
I'm finding the French friendly and quite willing to speak English to me. Perhaps helps that I'm a geezer. A few rain showers today but the sun comes out between.
Some sort of holiday today but haven't figured out quite what it is.
Today we visited Montemarte, the highest point in Paris, and the Basilica of the Sacred Heart. Novenas 9 Euro. Beautiful panaroma of Paris once I managed to drag Joanne away from Pigalle. Quite different ambiance at this end of Paris. Don't know that I've ever seen such a city panorma any where in my travels.
I'm finding the French friendly and quite willing to speak English to me. Perhaps helps that I'm a geezer. A few rain showers today but the sun comes out between.
Some sort of holiday today but haven't figured out quite what it is.
Monday, May 7, 2007
Like Cattle Around A Dog
I was sitting at a sidealk cafe on the Champs de Elysses enjoying a meal while people watching when suddenly I looked up and discovered I was the one being watched. The crowd in front reminded me of a herd of cattle surrounding a strange dog. What have I done? Looking into their eyes I saw they were looking just over my head. I peered over my shoulder and noted they were watching presidential election results on a large tv in the window. When the result was announced the crowd dispursed and there was much honking of horns on the street.
I met Mona Lisa today, smaller than I expected,,,,also met Venus de Milo, who needs a good orthopaedic surgeon, had a nap in Notre Dame and thought that the Eiffel Tower would work well for a windmill.
Love the Metro,,,subway system,,,easy way to see the sights. Working to master the French keyboard, q and a are reversed so thqt cquses problems. I ll keep trying.
I met Mona Lisa today, smaller than I expected,,,,also met Venus de Milo, who needs a good orthopaedic surgeon, had a nap in Notre Dame and thought that the Eiffel Tower would work well for a windmill.
Love the Metro,,,subway system,,,easy way to see the sights. Working to master the French keyboard, q and a are reversed so thqt cquses problems. I ll keep trying.
Sunday, May 6, 2007
Strangers in Paris
"Are you Americans?" she asked. "Yes." "I have a grandson in Iraq." Her son is married to an American and its his son in Iraq. What is one to say?
We made it to Paris fine,,,but postings will have to wait until I find a keyboard that's not laid out French style. Too hard to break old keyboard habits!
We made it to Paris fine,,,but postings will have to wait until I find a keyboard that's not laid out French style. Too hard to break old keyboard habits!
Wednesday, February 7, 2007
One Final Taxi Story
Preparing to leave my hotel before the crack of dawn (3a.m.) I thought I'd just arrange a taxi. The hotel has a taxi service by the front door that advertises Airport 600Bt. I knew that was more than if I just hailed one or made my own arrangement the night before. Not having used the taxi service all the time I was there it occurred to me that I should give them some business. So the morning before I was to leave I made a reservation and anted up the 600bt. At 3a.m. this morning I exit the hotel with my bags. Two ordinary cars are parked in front of the hotel drivers asleep behind the wheel of each. The doorman awakens one of them, throws my bags in the trunk and we're off to the airport. We've only gone a couple of blocks and the driver puts a CD in the player and not only are treated to the sound but the accompanying video comes up on a screen in front of him. To add to the distractions he's soon chatting on his cell phone. But the traffic was light at that hour and we made it to the airport with no trouble.
The current temperature is minus 8 degrees Fahrenheit the pilot announced as we landed in Minneapolis. Not exactly a warm welcome home. I envied the woman seated next to me from Tokyo. She fell asleep before we took off and did not awaken until ten hours later and never left her seat (11 hours flying time) until we landed. I was about to call 911 on her behalf.
It was a good trip....Joanne asked me to rate it so I gave it a 9...on a scale of 1-10.
My next scheduled bloggable trip is to Paris and Romania in May. This time Joanne will go with me because the temps are more to her liking and I promise to make reservations. We leave May 5, and will be gone about 16 days. I may post a few more reflections on this trip I just completed if something comes to mind. I hope you've enjoyed reading the blogs as I have writing them
The current temperature is minus 8 degrees Fahrenheit the pilot announced as we landed in Minneapolis. Not exactly a warm welcome home. I envied the woman seated next to me from Tokyo. She fell asleep before we took off and did not awaken until ten hours later and never left her seat (11 hours flying time) until we landed. I was about to call 911 on her behalf.
It was a good trip....Joanne asked me to rate it so I gave it a 9...on a scale of 1-10.
My next scheduled bloggable trip is to Paris and Romania in May. This time Joanne will go with me because the temps are more to her liking and I promise to make reservations. We leave May 5, and will be gone about 16 days. I may post a few more reflections on this trip I just completed if something comes to mind. I hope you've enjoyed reading the blogs as I have writing them
Monday, February 5, 2007
So I Enter This Taxi
So I enter this taxi I've flagged on the street and tell him I want to go to the Grand Palace (see pics). Taxi diver, "300Bt". Me, "No, meter". Driver, "200Bt". Me, "No, meter". Driver, "Traffic jam, 200Bt". Me, "No traffic jam, meter." We arrive and the meter reads 67Bt, I give him 100Bt and get out.
As I step out of the taxi at 10:30am a man runs up and says, "Temple closed 'till noon so students can pray, you come with me." Yeah, right if I believe that I'd also buy the Brooklyn Bridge.
I thought I was early enough to beat the crowds at the temple and palace. Wrong. I suppose there could have been more in the afternoon but I don't know where they would have put them. Occasionally I'm asked if I'd lead a tour and my stock answer (which is in jest but not totally false) is that "I don't play well with others." The other reason is that I'd feel obligated to take them to 'the sights' when I most enjoy hanging out in the streets and neighborhoods.
Tomorrow it's home again. Wish I could store up heat. Yesterday was the first day that felt hot to me. Other days have been very pleasant....90 or lower.
As I step out of the taxi at 10:30am a man runs up and says, "Temple closed 'till noon so students can pray, you come with me." Yeah, right if I believe that I'd also buy the Brooklyn Bridge.
I thought I was early enough to beat the crowds at the temple and palace. Wrong. I suppose there could have been more in the afternoon but I don't know where they would have put them. Occasionally I'm asked if I'd lead a tour and my stock answer (which is in jest but not totally false) is that "I don't play well with others." The other reason is that I'd feel obligated to take them to 'the sights' when I most enjoy hanging out in the streets and neighborhoods.
Tomorrow it's home again. Wish I could store up heat. Yesterday was the first day that felt hot to me. Other days have been very pleasant....90 or lower.
There's A Naked Male With A Guitar!
There's a naked male with a guitar running around the e-mail cafe. I'd guess he's two and a son of the mom/pop who run the place. His sister, age 7?, is on the computer next to me doing her homework in Thai.
In my ongoing attempt to feel at home in malls I made a visit to the one a couple of blocks from my hotel. With the exception of the food court it was five floors (see pic) of thing digital. If it wasn't in some way related to digital electronics they didn't sell it.
Oh yes, I was right. Someone did win and someone did lose the Super Bowl and entire affair having the moral relevance of two mules fighting over a turnip! (joke)
Tune in tomorrow for the ongoing saga of Curmudgeon vs taxi driver.......
In my ongoing attempt to feel at home in malls I made a visit to the one a couple of blocks from my hotel. With the exception of the food court it was five floors (see pic) of thing digital. If it wasn't in some way related to digital electronics they didn't sell it.
Oh yes, I was right. Someone did win and someone did lose the Super Bowl and entire affair having the moral relevance of two mules fighting over a turnip! (joke)
Tune in tomorrow for the ongoing saga of Curmudgeon vs taxi driver.......
New Pics
For my latest Bkk pics click on www.picasaweb.google.co.uk/ajnegstad and go to latest Bkk Pics
Sunday, February 4, 2007
Bottled Water as Moral Issue
Yesterday the Bkk Post ran an article on bottled water. The essence of the article was that residents of Bkk are buying bottled water unnecessarily because the tap water is pure. Marketers have convinced the rank and file that bottled water is superior. Nestle' is one of the major brands.
It being Sunday, yesterday, I was told that the huge market next to the hotel would be closed. Maybe 100 of 10,000 stalls were closed but the crowd was doubled. The Thai do love to shop. Puts me in a quandary; to bargain or not to bargain? When the initial cost of an item is $2. does it make sense to bargain in down to $1.50?
I awakened this at 7:30a.m. and turned on ESPN. It was the 1st quarter of the Superbowl. Imagine my surprise that the Vikings weren't playing! I thought I'd watch the game but found it boring compared to Bkk street life. I know how the game will end; one team will win and the other team will lose. With only two days left in Bkk I think I'll see if I can find some adventure.
It being Sunday, yesterday, I was told that the huge market next to the hotel would be closed. Maybe 100 of 10,000 stalls were closed but the crowd was doubled. The Thai do love to shop. Puts me in a quandary; to bargain or not to bargain? When the initial cost of an item is $2. does it make sense to bargain in down to $1.50?
I awakened this at 7:30a.m. and turned on ESPN. It was the 1st quarter of the Superbowl. Imagine my surprise that the Vikings weren't playing! I thought I'd watch the game but found it boring compared to Bkk street life. I know how the game will end; one team will win and the other team will lose. With only two days left in Bkk I think I'll see if I can find some adventure.
Saturday, February 3, 2007
I Saved 2 Dollars
There was a taxi waiting as I stepped off the water taxi by the Oriental Hotel (the hotel that once refused me admittance because I was wearing sandals) yesterday. Taxis by hotels often like to work off meter so they can charge more. I told the drive where I was going and he said, "150Bt (approx $5.)" I said "No". He said "100Bt" and I walked down the street and flagged one down. The meter read 37Bt when I smugly dismounted from the cab at a place I did not want to be. It turned out to be a cheap ride to the wrong place because the driver understood less English than a New York cabbie. Oh, yes, I did get where I wanted to go in the next cab...for 100Bt. Similar to many of my attempts to economize!
The water taxis on the Chayo Praya river are fun. I rode from end to end yesterday just for the fun of it. The cost was about $1. each way. Cheap entertainment.
Stuck in a traffic jam yesterday I wondered how it felt to be a sailor becalmed at sea. In Bkk traffic jams stop, for what seems like forever, then speed ahead at high speed for a few blocks only to come to a complete stop that seems endless. I found a new area on which to work in my quest to be non-anxious.
The water taxis on the Chayo Praya river are fun. I rode from end to end yesterday just for the fun of it. The cost was about $1. each way. Cheap entertainment.
Stuck in a traffic jam yesterday I wondered how it felt to be a sailor becalmed at sea. In Bkk traffic jams stop, for what seems like forever, then speed ahead at high speed for a few blocks only to come to a complete stop that seems endless. I found a new area on which to work in my quest to be non-anxious.
Friday, February 2, 2007
When In Thailand
The modest hotel, in which I'm staying, has many farang (foreigners) mostly European and Indian. As is common here, they have a two tier price system. My hotel charges foreigners double what Thai pay. the cost is 1000bt for Thai and 2000bt per day, breakfast included, for foreigners which translates to about $35. and $70. respectively. They gave me the Thai rate because I convinced them I was a friend of Thailand. I considered telling them I was a friend of the king but that was a stretch and untrue besides. Haven't encountered any Americans since leaving USA.
Every day I've been going to the same place, because it is cheapest, for my massage...$9. for two hours is money well spent. I ask for the same masseuse who is working hard on her English. Working six days a week, from 9am to 9pm, she uses her day off to take English classes. She's the Thai form of social security. At 34 she is the youngest of three children, unmarried and works to support her parents who live near Chiang Mai.
Every day I've been going to the same place, because it is cheapest, for my massage...$9. for two hours is money well spent. I ask for the same masseuse who is working hard on her English. Working six days a week, from 9am to 9pm, she uses her day off to take English classes. She's the Thai form of social security. At 34 she is the youngest of three children, unmarried and works to support her parents who live near Chiang Mai.
Thursday, February 1, 2007
Ayutthaya Trip Pics
To see my latest pics click on www.picasaweb.google.co.uk/ajnegstad and go to Ayutthaya Trip
On to Ayutthaya
Ayutthaya is a world heritage site and Thai capital for 417 years. Located about an hour north of Bkk it was founded in 1350 by King U-Thong (not to be confused with 21st century thongs) when the Thai were being pushed south by their northern neighbors (largely Khmer (Cambodian)). It was ruled by a succession of 33 kings until it was seized by the Burmese in 1767 and destroyed.
It seems to be a 'must see' on the tourist itinerary so I finally broke down visited the site yesterday. The magnitude of the ruins testify to the grandeur of the city. Unfortunately there are only ruins left. Unlike the area around Seim Reap, Cambodia (Angkor Wat etc.) not much is left standing. There were the obligatory Buddhist temples, one of which, had a 25 ft. high, solid bronze Buddha plated in gold leaf.
There are also current royal palaces in Ayutthaya, two of which I toured. They are set in a beautiful botanical garden with ponds, pagodas, etc. Music composed by the current king was piped across the grounds.
The current king is deeply revered. King bracelets are popular and this morning I saw a t-shirt that proclaimed; ''I LOVE THE KING". He is deeply concerned about the welfare of his people and is quite a Renaissance Man. He is a jazz musician of note. The music piped across the palace grounds was western style and beautiful. He designed a bridge which spans the Chao Praya river in Bkk. (see my picture "King Bridge Bkk") Like English monarchs he reigns but does not rule though apparently does wield political influence when he feels it is necessary.
Thailand is currently being ruled by a military junta after a coup. It is thought that the king supported the coup. The deposed prime minister, Thakasin, was thought to be corrupt, though it did much for the rural poor and thus popular with many. One Thai told me that 25% of the cost of the new airport was graft.
I returned from Ayutthaya by boat down the Chao Praya River. A delightful way to see the sights. Barges are pulled, not pushed, and almost every barge has a family living on it. On one I saw a man washing his dog, on another a woman was mopping her living area, another woman was hanging out her wash. I tried to get some pics.
Miscellaneous scenes: At the Kunming China airport men's room; label on the urinal "American Standard". Bkk street scene; The frenetic Bkk traffic stopped to allow a three foot lizard leisurely cross the street.
It seems to be a 'must see' on the tourist itinerary so I finally broke down visited the site yesterday. The magnitude of the ruins testify to the grandeur of the city. Unfortunately there are only ruins left. Unlike the area around Seim Reap, Cambodia (Angkor Wat etc.) not much is left standing. There were the obligatory Buddhist temples, one of which, had a 25 ft. high, solid bronze Buddha plated in gold leaf.
There are also current royal palaces in Ayutthaya, two of which I toured. They are set in a beautiful botanical garden with ponds, pagodas, etc. Music composed by the current king was piped across the grounds.
The current king is deeply revered. King bracelets are popular and this morning I saw a t-shirt that proclaimed; ''I LOVE THE KING". He is deeply concerned about the welfare of his people and is quite a Renaissance Man. He is a jazz musician of note. The music piped across the palace grounds was western style and beautiful. He designed a bridge which spans the Chao Praya river in Bkk. (see my picture "King Bridge Bkk") Like English monarchs he reigns but does not rule though apparently does wield political influence when he feels it is necessary.
Thailand is currently being ruled by a military junta after a coup. It is thought that the king supported the coup. The deposed prime minister, Thakasin, was thought to be corrupt, though it did much for the rural poor and thus popular with many. One Thai told me that 25% of the cost of the new airport was graft.
I returned from Ayutthaya by boat down the Chao Praya River. A delightful way to see the sights. Barges are pulled, not pushed, and almost every barge has a family living on it. On one I saw a man washing his dog, on another a woman was mopping her living area, another woman was hanging out her wash. I tried to get some pics.
Miscellaneous scenes: At the Kunming China airport men's room; label on the urinal "American Standard". Bkk street scene; The frenetic Bkk traffic stopped to allow a three foot lizard leisurely cross the street.
Wednesday, January 31, 2007
Mall of America
Over the past several years, when some unattractive opportunity was presented, I would say to my colleagues at work, "I'd rather go clothes shopping with twelve women at the Mall of America." The strength of this declaration was increased by my smug refusal to go to the Mall. When I announced my retirement my ministry partner, Michelene, arranged to have twelve women (nine actually made it) take me to the MOA. So guess what I did today? I walked (alone in this case)to the 8 story mall about a mile from my hotel. Don't know that I'll do it again but it was interesting to see.
It's always a trip to walk around Bkk. I do sort of a shuffle watching every step for breaks, holes, etc. in the sidewalk, while keeping an eye out for awnings and umbrellas which are usually 6-12 inches lower than my head, all the while dodging pedestrians, carts, bikes, motorcycles, etc. Never a dull moment.....but the sights are fascinating and so are some of the smells, e.g., the scent of joss sticks telling me I'm near a shrine. (This morning, while I worked online the mom of the internet cafe brought out the offerings for the family shrine. Sort of family dvotions.)
I'm enjoying (usually) being back in my mom and pop internet cafe in Bkk. The one I used in KC was huge, I'd guess at least 200 terminals. This one has about 8 stations and the family children use it as their play room. This morning the baby let out the loudest ear piercing shriek, but, still better than the cloud of cigarette smoke in KC.
Logo on a t-shirt worn by an Asian man at the mall; "Welcome to America...now speak English". That reminds of the t-shirt I once saw on a young man in Cambodia, "Death to Yuppie Scum".
It's always a trip to walk around Bkk. I do sort of a shuffle watching every step for breaks, holes, etc. in the sidewalk, while keeping an eye out for awnings and umbrellas which are usually 6-12 inches lower than my head, all the while dodging pedestrians, carts, bikes, motorcycles, etc. Never a dull moment.....but the sights are fascinating and so are some of the smells, e.g., the scent of joss sticks telling me I'm near a shrine. (This morning, while I worked online the mom of the internet cafe brought out the offerings for the family shrine. Sort of family dvotions.)
I'm enjoying (usually) being back in my mom and pop internet cafe in Bkk. The one I used in KC was huge, I'd guess at least 200 terminals. This one has about 8 stations and the family children use it as their play room. This morning the baby let out the loudest ear piercing shriek, but, still better than the cloud of cigarette smoke in KC.
Logo on a t-shirt worn by an Asian man at the mall; "Welcome to America...now speak English". That reminds of the t-shirt I once saw on a young man in Cambodia, "Death to Yuppie Scum".
Tuesday, January 30, 2007
Warm Again!
The three men standing shoulder to shoulder to shoulder used their machine guns to wave off the sidewalk and into the street. Thinking that being run over was preferable to being machine gunned I quickly complied wonder perhaps if all those persons fearing for my safety were right. It appears that in KC (Kunming City) they armour the people instead of the truck. Glancing into the open door of the bank I saw at least three more machine gun carrying people plus the six on the sidewalk and still more in the minivan. Reminds me of the time Joanne was almost shot on her way to see Ho Chi Min.
Scene in a KC elevator; three young Chinese using a laptop wire into the wires of the elevator ceiling.
On the last blog I hinted at a surprise and the title of this blog provides a clue. I'd planned to stay in KC until Saturday but decided that I didn't want to be cold that long. Tried to change my tickets to Thur. but the only option was today (Tues) so I took it. I'm back in Bkk basking in the heat. I never could get warm in KC...nothing including my hotel room was heated...and I thought if I wanted to be cold I could have stayed in Mpls.
Now that I'm back in favorite family run, 7 station, inter-net cafe, with English speaking computers I'll do some serious picture uploading tomorrow.
Scene in a KC elevator; three young Chinese using a laptop wire into the wires of the elevator ceiling.
On the last blog I hinted at a surprise and the title of this blog provides a clue. I'd planned to stay in KC until Saturday but decided that I didn't want to be cold that long. Tried to change my tickets to Thur. but the only option was today (Tues) so I took it. I'm back in Bkk basking in the heat. I never could get warm in KC...nothing including my hotel room was heated...and I thought if I wanted to be cold I could have stayed in Mpls.
Now that I'm back in favorite family run, 7 station, inter-net cafe, with English speaking computers I'll do some serious picture uploading tomorrow.
Monday, January 29, 2007
More Of Kunming
It was a long cable car ride over the lake, the big lake next to Kunming whose name escapes me, and as we approached the other side I thought; "A tourist and his money is soon parted." A road across the lake was about 100 yards to the side. Then the cable car began to climb the steep hill and I had second thoughts. Toward the top of the hill I dismounted walked up some steps rounded a corner so see a lineup of tour buses. My taxi people could have delivered me to that spot. Ah, yes, A tourist and his money.......
But that's part of the fun...so in good humor I joined the procession climbing, climbing, climbing (no funicular this time) all to discover the "Dragon's Gate" grotto hewed out of solid rock by some inspired monk centuries ago. Frankly I was more impressed by the young man packing a load of sand up those steps to mix with concrete for some repair being done....or the woman who is cleaning the lobby of my hotel bldg every morning when I leave and is still doing when I return.
It was a hazy day so the spectacular views of Kunming were obscured........
There are 26 minority peoples in the province, Yunnan. A huge park has been built with a sample village from each of the tribes. This was my next stop. While it was very interesting it was obviously built with the Chinese in mind. It has a bit of the feeling of a zoo mixed with a theme park. I do hope that it signals some respect for the minorities some of which have as few as 120,000 people. A real trip would be to visit the actual villages.
Observed along the road....a Lexus dealership.
Every Asian city has it's own distinctive traffic patterns. No left turns on major streets in Kunming but there are special u-turn lanes. So the drives passes the street on which he'd like to turn left, make a u-turn and then a right turn.
Tune in tomorrow for a bit of a surprise.
But that's part of the fun...so in good humor I joined the procession climbing, climbing, climbing (no funicular this time) all to discover the "Dragon's Gate" grotto hewed out of solid rock by some inspired monk centuries ago. Frankly I was more impressed by the young man packing a load of sand up those steps to mix with concrete for some repair being done....or the woman who is cleaning the lobby of my hotel bldg every morning when I leave and is still doing when I return.
It was a hazy day so the spectacular views of Kunming were obscured........
There are 26 minority peoples in the province, Yunnan. A huge park has been built with a sample village from each of the tribes. This was my next stop. While it was very interesting it was obviously built with the Chinese in mind. It has a bit of the feeling of a zoo mixed with a theme park. I do hope that it signals some respect for the minorities some of which have as few as 120,000 people. A real trip would be to visit the actual villages.
Observed along the road....a Lexus dealership.
Every Asian city has it's own distinctive traffic patterns. No left turns on major streets in Kunming but there are special u-turn lanes. So the drives passes the street on which he'd like to turn left, make a u-turn and then a right turn.
Tune in tomorrow for a bit of a surprise.
Sunday, January 28, 2007
Life Is an Adventure
I found a Chinese restaurant (imagine that) near my hotel last night. The waitress led me around the premises and I ordered by pointing at what I wanted. There must have been a mistake because Mr. Montezuma visited my in the night. Once again I discovered true loneliness...being alone and sick in a foreign land. After about five hours I decide I was going to live and have been fine today.
Arranged with my taxi people, husband and wife, for a tour of the city center. Not much of old Kunming left. It is all skyscrapers now. Because it is Sunday the people were out to enjoy themselves. They are friendly but I've only seen two Caucasians since I left the airport. I catch people looking at me but when I look at them they quickly glance away. Walking by a wedding party outside a restaurant I gave a congratulatory signal and one of groomsmen rushed over and gave me gift cigarette. Many of the people have a Nepalese/Tibetan/Mongol look and many are quite tall by Asian standards.
There is a large central park with a lake that reminds me of the one in Hanoi where McCain crashed. People were feeding the gulls, doing Tia Chi, playing badminton and generally enjoying the day.
No CNN available here but CCTV (Communist China TV) broadcasts in English. It appears to be somewhat more objective than Fox but not nearly so slick. It is always a good thing when propaganda isn't slick.
The police/party presence is not much in view. Much less than when I was in Viet Nam though that's been several years. There are a few beggars but commerce is rampant. I went to a three story supermarket to buy some groceries for my room. If you couldn't buy it there you don't need it. Interesting that the check out is on 2nd floor; the escalators handle carts. My two modest bags of groceries cost $8. Labor is cheap so every aisle has a least one attendant standing by. While I type this an attendant comes by and refills my tea cup.
It is cold with daytime temps in the 40s and nights colder...altitude is about 6000ft...but flowers are in bloom. Nothing is heated, including hotels, so after shivering long enough, I bought a heavy winter coat for $16. Communism is good! :)
I'm not hopeful about getting my pics uploaded until I return to Bkk. My Chinese is not improving very quickly and smiling, nodding and pointing doesn't work on the computer.
Arranged with my taxi people, husband and wife, for a tour of the city center. Not much of old Kunming left. It is all skyscrapers now. Because it is Sunday the people were out to enjoy themselves. They are friendly but I've only seen two Caucasians since I left the airport. I catch people looking at me but when I look at them they quickly glance away. Walking by a wedding party outside a restaurant I gave a congratulatory signal and one of groomsmen rushed over and gave me gift cigarette. Many of the people have a Nepalese/Tibetan/Mongol look and many are quite tall by Asian standards.
There is a large central park with a lake that reminds me of the one in Hanoi where McCain crashed. People were feeding the gulls, doing Tia Chi, playing badminton and generally enjoying the day.
No CNN available here but CCTV (Communist China TV) broadcasts in English. It appears to be somewhat more objective than Fox but not nearly so slick. It is always a good thing when propaganda isn't slick.
The police/party presence is not much in view. Much less than when I was in Viet Nam though that's been several years. There are a few beggars but commerce is rampant. I went to a three story supermarket to buy some groceries for my room. If you couldn't buy it there you don't need it. Interesting that the check out is on 2nd floor; the escalators handle carts. My two modest bags of groceries cost $8. Labor is cheap so every aisle has a least one attendant standing by. While I type this an attendant comes by and refills my tea cup.
It is cold with daytime temps in the 40s and nights colder...altitude is about 6000ft...but flowers are in bloom. Nothing is heated, including hotels, so after shivering long enough, I bought a heavy winter coat for $16. Communism is good! :)
I'm not hopeful about getting my pics uploaded until I return to Bkk. My Chinese is not improving very quickly and smiling, nodding and pointing doesn't work on the computer.
Life Is an Adventure
I found a Chinese restaurant (imagine that) near my hotel last night. The waitress led me around the premises and I ordered by pointing at what I wanted. There must have been a mistake because Mr. Montezuma visited my in the night. Once again I discovered true loneliness...being alone and sick in a foreign land. After about five hours I decide I was going to live and have been fine today.
Arranged with my taxi people, husband and wife, for a tour of the city center. Not much of old Kunming left. It is all skyscrapers now. Because it is Sunday the people were out to enjoy themselves. They are friendly but I've only seen two Caucasians since I left the airport. I catch people looking at me but when I look at them they quickly glance away. Walking by a wedding party outside a restaurant I gave a congratulatory signal and one of groomsmen rushed over and gave me gift cigarette. Many of the people have a Nepalese/Tibetan/Mongol look and many are quite tall by Asian standards.
There is a large central park with a lake that reminds me of the one in Hanoi where McCain crashed. People were feeding the gulls, doing Tia Chi, playing badminton and generally enjoying the day.
No CNN available here but CCTV (Communist China TV) broadcasts in English. It appears to be somewhat more objective than Fox but not nearly so slick. It is always a good thing when propaganda isn't slick.
The police/party presence is not much in view. Much less than when I was in Viet Nam though that's been several years. There are a few beggars but commerce is rampant. I went to a three story supermarket to buy some groceries for my room. If you couldn't buy it there you don't need it. Interesting that the check out is on 2nd floor; the escalators handle carts. My two modest bags of groceries cost $8. Labor is cheap so every aisle has a least one attendant standing by. While I type this an attendant comes by and refills my tea cup.
It is cold with daytime temps in the 40s and nights colder...altitude is about 6000ft...but flowers are in bloom. Nothing is heated, including hotels, so after shivering long enough, I bought a heavy winter coat for $16. Communism is good! :)
I'm not hopeful about getting my pics uploaded until I return to Bkk. My Chinese is not improving very quickly and smiling, nodding and pointing doesn't work on the computer.
Arranged with my taxi people, husband and wife, for a tour of the city center. Not much of old Kunming left. It is all skyscrapers now. Because it is Sunday the people were out to enjoy themselves. They are friendly but I've only seen two Caucasians since I left the airport. I catch people looking at me but when I look at them they quickly glance away. Walking by a wedding party outside a restaurant I gave a congratulatory signal and one of groomsmen rushed over and gave me gift cigarette. Many of the people have a Nepalese/Tibetan/Mongol look and many are quite tall by Asian standards.
There is a large central park with a lake that reminds me of the one in Hanoi where McCain crashed. People were feeding the gulls, doing Tia Chi, playing badminton and generally enjoying the day.
No CNN available here but CCTV (Communist China TV) broadcasts in English. It appears to be somewhat more objective than Fox but not nearly so slick. It is always a good thing when propaganda isn't slick.
The police/party presence is not much in view. Much less than when I was in Viet Nam though that's been several years. There are a few beggars but commerce is rampant. I went to a three story supermarket to buy some groceries for my room. If you couldn't buy it there you don't need it. Interesting that the check out is on 2nd floor; the escalators handle carts. My two modest bags of groceries cost $8. Labor is cheap so every aisle has a least one attendant standing by. While I type this an attendant comes by and refills my tea cup.
It is cold with daytime temps in the 40s and nights colder...altitude is about 6000ft...but flowers are in bloom. Nothing is heated, including hotels, so after shivering long enough, I bought a heavy winter coat for $16. Communism is good! :)
I'm not hopeful about getting my pics uploaded until I return to Bkk. My Chinese is not improving very quickly and smiling, nodding and pointing doesn't work on the computer.
Saturday, January 27, 2007
Curmudgeon In China
I admit that besides being a curmudgeon I'm a bit of a Luddite. So I deplane in Kunming, go through passport control, customs, collect my bag in the dingy Communist terminal and then I walk over to the ATM and draw money from my Mpls account in Chinese currency and my mind boggles.Now, I'm posting a blog on a computer that keeps asking me questions in Chinese and has a keyboard with the letters worn off. So far I've managed to navigate using memory and luck. There were about 15 minutes of hilarity when all the young Chinese tech heads tried to figure out how to get grey beard on-line. NO one speaks English and my Chinese is really bad. This smoke filled room keeps me sneezing too. If I can't get this critter to convert to English I don't know if I'll atttemp to up load pics! This internet cafe is a huge room filled with young people playing computer games.Al's cheap. So I found this hostel on line that showed nice rooms in a modern bldg. $25. per night I didn't think would break my bank. Up to the 16th floor I went to, not really a lobby just a room, where after much chattering, consulting, telephoning, help from my taxi driver, looking at my internet booking they finally concluded I was legit. I was showed to a room on the 12th floor. When the door opend the stench of stale smoke about bowled me over. I politely inquired about a non-smoking room? Much more chattering, help from the taxi driver, who speaks the most English I've found yet...just slightly more than my Chinese....and I was motioned to wait. About 10 minutes later I was summoned to a room on the 13th floor which was slightly better. After the hotel staff left I discoved the secret was that they had opened a window. I've been spoiled by Thailand where most public bldgs/spaces are nonsmoking.Planes from around the world fascinate me since I'm easily entertained. As we were taxing down the runway in Bkk I glimsed one that had the slogan, WHAT A WAY TO GO! painted in huge letters on its side. I assume its not some sort of death wish.Its cool here...the city of eternal Spring. Something like May in Mpls. Bkk was in the 90s every day
Friday, January 26, 2007
On To China
Tomorrow, Saturday, I will fly Thai Airways, "Smooth As Silk" to Kunming China. I may not have time to post before I leave.
Jim Thompson House
Jim Thompson was sent to Thailand by the CIA toward the end of WW II. Educated as an architect he stayed on in Thailand. We was fascinated by the traditional Thai silk weaving. He is credited with reviving that weaving by finding markets, encouraging designs and employing many weavers. He built a traditional Thai style home in Bkk and was major player in Bkk society circles. In 1969 he was on a brief vacation in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia, the destination of many residents of Bkk seeking to escape the summer tropical heat. He disappeared without a trace and his fate has never been learned.
Today I visited his home which has been preserved as it was the day he disappeared. It is furnished with many artifacts he'd collected from various places in Asia. It also shows traditional Thai architecture.
Today I visited his home which has been preserved as it was the day he disappeared. It is furnished with many artifacts he'd collected from various places in Asia. It also shows traditional Thai architecture.
Thursday, January 25, 2007
Boken English
The one star hotel, in which I stay for $33. per day, offers a full hot breakfast included in the price. The large coffee shop where the breakfast is served a sign warns of a low ceiling; "MINE (sic) YOUR HEAD
Exqusite Pain
Many years ago, when I was visiting daughter, Lisa, in Cambodia she introduced me to Thai massage. Yesterday I went for one. There was a room with about 10 mattresses in a row. Sometimes there are curtains but often not. Dressed in pajamas, which usually are several sizes to small for me, the masseuse goes to work.
Most often the massage last two hours. Using elbows, knees, hands and feet and sometimes hot stones to bend, twist, knead and rub the masseuse inflicts exquisite pain that is amazingly therapeutic. Oh yes, my two hour massage yesterday cost $9.
Most often the massage last two hours. Using elbows, knees, hands and feet and sometimes hot stones to bend, twist, knead and rub the masseuse inflicts exquisite pain that is amazingly therapeutic. Oh yes, my two hour massage yesterday cost $9.
Where's The Road Rage?
Traffic in Bkk is a thing of beauty and amazement. Rush hour lasts from 4 until 9pm. Every truck, bus, car, taxi and motorcycle take every inch they can get. At stop lights motorcycles wind through the traffic to be a the front when the light goes green. Never does anyone pause to give another the right of way. The right of way is gained by getting enough of one's vehicle out to force others to stop or swerve.
Yet, seldom is a horn heard and in 36hrs here I've heard one siren. Never have I seen any display of anger or frustration. Taxi drivers calmly work on their paperwork while they wait for traffic jams to clear and then they are off to the races.
If this were Minnesota the traffic would lead to road rage; flaring tempers, flying fingers and guns pulled.
Yet, seldom is a horn heard and in 36hrs here I've heard one siren. Never have I seen any display of anger or frustration. Taxi drivers calmly work on their paperwork while they wait for traffic jams to clear and then they are off to the races.
If this were Minnesota the traffic would lead to road rage; flaring tempers, flying fingers and guns pulled.
Flight of the Bumble Bee
Early in my ministry I was presiding at a wedding on a hot summer evening. The kind of hot evening that your clothes melt into the varnish of the pew. All the doors and windows were open to afford the people a little breath of air.
Into this festive assembly flew and uninvited bumble bee. Standing before the altar looking over the heads of the bride and groom I could see the guests part as the bee flew between them, almost as if an invisible hand was parting them.
This scene came to mind when I saw traffic; cars, motorcycles, pedestrians, flowing around an unseen object. When I was parallel to the place of division I saw a one legged beggar lying on his stomach inching his way forward pushing his begging cup ahead of him.
LORD HAVE MERCY.!
Into this festive assembly flew and uninvited bumble bee. Standing before the altar looking over the heads of the bride and groom I could see the guests part as the bee flew between them, almost as if an invisible hand was parting them.
This scene came to mind when I saw traffic; cars, motorcycles, pedestrians, flowing around an unseen object. When I was parallel to the place of division I saw a one legged beggar lying on his stomach inching his way forward pushing his begging cup ahead of him.
LORD HAVE MERCY.!
Wednesday, January 24, 2007
Curmudgeon in Bangkok
After a rather long trip, I left Monday A.M. and over nighted in San Francisco to use frequent flier miles. I arrive safely in Bangkok (Bkk) at midnight Wed. The new airport also bused us to the terminal. I kinda miss the funky old one with the golf course between the runways. Does a golfer get a do over when a landing 747 screeches the tires?
More later when I've done some exploring.
A couple of pics from the street in front of my hotel.
More later when I've done some exploring.
A couple of pics from the street in front of my hotel.
Friday, January 19, 2007
A Picture from Argentina
This pic from Patagonia in Argentina will have to do until I arrive in Asia.
Saturday, January 13, 2007
Retirement Article
www.mnsun.com/articles/2007/01/12/news/pw11negstadretire.prt If you'd like to read an article about my retirement click on the link above.
Thursday, January 11, 2007
Still Counting
If I'd known how much trouble I'd cause by retiring I might have gone AWOL. Now they are buying new cups, dishes and silverware.
Tuesday, January 9, 2007
13 Days And Counting
January 14th is my retirement date. One week later I begin my next trip to Asia. Beginning January 22, I will post regular Curmudgeonly Dispatches for your entertainment and edification.
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