Friday, May 18, 2007

On The Way Home

Arising at 3:30am and getting in a taxi at 4:30 got us to the airport on time. No gridlock at that time of the day. Rain was moving in as we were moving out. Now we'er between planes in Schipol....which has some of the longest walks and longest taxis after landing.

We were very fortunate in Bucharest to have a hotel in the historical district. If anyone is contemplating a trip to Romania we heartily recommend the Rembrandt Hotel. Service beyond anything we've ever experienced and their prices were very reasonable...good breakfast too.

So, here I sit in Schipol with constant foot trafffic going past...where did they come from and where are the all going?...I feel the need to write some thing profound becasue 30 min. on this commputer cost 6euro. but it is too early to be profound.

I'll post pictures from home so until then....so long...I will be landing in Mpls in a couple of hours...

Thursday, May 17, 2007

Happy Syttende Mai!

Joanne and I share about an 8 degree comfort range, below 72 I get cold and above 80 she gets crabby. :) The temps during our trip have stayed in our comfort range with beautiful blue sky. The next 4 days' forecast for Bucharest is for rain. We feel blessed!

PS. We have one of two rooms on the 8th floor of our hotel. The elevator is literally 3'X3'...I measured....not for the claustrophobic! but it's modern and very efficient. We have nice balcony facing west and we can see the huge "People's Place" over the rooftops of other buildings. A grandprix auto race is scheduled to begin around the Palace tomorrow.

Two Hot Chocolates and then...

Guided by a helpful map we did a morning walking tour of the historic Lipscani district where our wonderful Rembrandt Hotel is located. We visited six Orthodox churches five of which were having Ascension Day services. Their worship is certainly multi-sensual compared with our cerebral Lutheran worship. It was a treat to join the worshippers even though we could not understand the words. We spent over an hour in one service mesmerized by the music as cantor and priest sang antiphonally with an all male choir in the balcony. All the music was acappella(you know, singing without instruments, however you spell it). The wonderful voices would be welcomed by any Lutheran college choir director. Sometimes they sang in four parts and some times in eight. We got incensed by the priest making us feel a part of the worship. Those marvelous voices will reverberate in our memories for time to come.

After we'd feasted on as many architectural sights as we could absorb in one morning we sat at an outdoor cafe and ordered hot chocolate with ice cream. Served in glasses the rich European chocolate made our hot cocoa at home seem insipid. As I sat smugly enjoying my chocolate I glanced up to see an elderly woman surreptitiously take the bread from a basket that the waitress was about to buss away. Unseen by the waitress she quickly added some mustard and with a big smile slipped away with her bounty. She'd been fed with the crumbs from the table and I suddenly did not feel so smug. Reflecting on the worship we'd experienced I thought, "the essence of worship (religion) is action on behalf of others."

And, so, we prepare to take our leave. Tomorrow we will be home but Romania will always have a place in our hearts. Perhaps this is the honeymoon which we never really had, except for a quick weekend in Sioux City. I have to say that Romania is much more romantic than Sioux City. I'm sad to leave but I'm also ready to be home!

Two Corrections

Mistakes abound; #1. I both misspelled and mistranslated a place in which we had dinner in Bucharest. It should be Carul cu Bere and translated 'The Beer Cart'. Our self directed walking map for the historical district says its from 1878 and "built in Gothic style, (it) has the atmosphere of a German beer house, adorned with iron work and wall painting." #2. My second mistake was misspelling the name of the Lutheran trivia character. It should be spelled Teutsch. Two cups of coffee to the first person to identify him. I've never mastered English spelling so it is no wonder I have trouble with Romanian.

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

Two Geezers Navigate Bucharest

Between Sighisoara and Sibiu we turned off to visit the fortress church at Breitan. This church has a room in which couples wanting a divorce were locked for two weeks to think things over. Perhaps the threat of confinement was enough to dissuade...one can only speculate about the two weeks for those so confined. I'm proud to say that this self-directed elder hostel managed a week on the road without a cross word. And that comes after navigating Bucharest with out map and only the most rudimentary signage. It was a relief to surrender the car and let the taxi driver take over. Something about trying to navigate while in gridlocked traffic without maps or signs...fortunately the sun was shining so I could keep my directions straight. I imagine the day not far when Bucharest is locked in 24 hour gridlock and no one can move.


Driving the road, autobahn they call it, from Pitesti to Bucharest was a trip. As I was passing slow moving trucks cars would roar up behind me, blink their lights, honk their horn, and if I still wasn't fast enough clearning their lane they'd turn on their siren. Ah, such anxiety. Perhaps you can imagine how effective they were in influencing my behavior.

Have I said, "Life is Good"? It is.

Again, The Kindness of Stangers

We left dreamy Sibiu for the drive back to Bucharest about 9am. At the halfway point we stopped for gas in the industrial city of Pitesti. At the station we asked for directions to Bucharest thinking we'd take a side road that would lead us closer to the airport where we were to return the car. The station attendant did not speak English but a young customer spoke up to tell us the road we intended was very bad. We asked him how to find the main road and he told us to follow him. About a half hour later after leading us through the city, twists, turns, backstreets, etc. he stopped and said the highway was just around the next corner, refused $$, shook our hands and drove away.

Arriving at our hotel in Bucharest, the one left a week ago, we were talking to the manager, Anna, about our trip. Joanne mentioned 'internet' and Anna volunteered the use of the hotel's laptop...so here I sit in our room doing my blog.

Parker Palmer reflects on the one's experience of the world; a hostile place in which one does battle or essentially a place of life and kindness...my experience is the later.

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

We will, we will Rock You...

The hand dandy Lonely Planet travel guide said, "Author's Pick" for eating is the 'Pizzeria'. It also said to sit facing the windows to avoid the color schemes used for decoration and gaze out over the rooftops of medieval lowertown. Good advice twice because I had the best lasagna of my life, accompanied by a fine bottle of Feteasca Neagra, watching the sun set on the distant mountains and the tile roofs below. These tile roofs are festooned with 'eye windows' apparently unique in the world. A fresh breeze blew in the window giving us a smoke free environment. (It seems everyone smokes incessantly in Romania.) The Pizzeria is in the city wall, with vaulted ceilings with frescoes and walls three feet thick. Reife's in Davenport may have enjoyed the colors but I didn't find them offensive. So there we were, good wind, good food, good time together when the Romanian music ended and what did we hear but, "We will, we will Rock You...."

The City's Most Luxurious

We're staying in Hotel Imparatual Romanilor, which our guidebook says is the city's most luxurious. It is nice and the free massage a treat. Antique lovers would like the hotel because it is furnished with antiques from many different eras. It opened in 1555 as a restaurant and the dinning room features a ceiling of sliding mirrors....sure beats Holiday Inn or the cheap guesthouse I use in Asia and the Romanian price is very reasonable by our standards.

Any reader interested in an off the track vacation should consider Romania. It has great natural beauty, endless history, beaches (which we'll not see) friendly people and great prices.

A Little Lutheran Trivia

I'm beginning to feel 'old building fatigue' even as I once said, "I never need to see another Buddhist temple. But we dutifully visited the local Lutheran cathedral and also the Orthodox cathedral, which made the the Lutheran one look plain. A little Lutheran trivia for you; Who was Teusch? Two cups of coffee for the first right answer.

Following the revolution in 1988 most of the Germans (Saxons) went to Germany. As Romanians have moved into take their places there has been a boom in building Orthodox churches. We've seen several being built.

Sibiu is a worth choice for the European Cultural Capital of 2007.

Monday, May 14, 2007

2007 European Heritage City

After a delightful stay in Sighoasora we motored to Sibiu, the 2007 Euopean Cultural Capital. We took a side trip to Breiten to see a prime example of a fortified church. This church was circled by four walls to use as a fortress whne the communityu was attacked. It is in spendid condition. As good as seeing the church was the detour down and back road through famrs and villages.

I thought I worked hard growing up on a farm. When I saw farmers cutting hay with a sycthe, raking hay fields by hand, and hand hoeing thier fields I decided I did not have it so bad. We see a few tractors, a 1960's model IHC that I'd didn't recognize was parked behind our hostel in Sighoasora, but we see 50 horse carts for every tractor. We've only seen one herd of water buffalo but the are supposed to be common, too.

Our hotel is on the historic city sqyare of Sibiu and according to the guide book the best location in the city. It's alos very nice. Way to go Orbitz! the self-directed elder hosteler's friend. The hotel offers free massage so we're going to check that out.

We see very little racial diversity. I don't think we've seen and Indian since Paris and very few blacks or Asians. The oppressed minority here are the Roma (Gypsies) though we haven't seen many of them either.

Sunday, May 13, 2007

10,000 Teeny Boppers

This may be an interesting post. After twice losing my entire new blog to cyberneverland at a cafe yesterday I'm not working on the guest house computer. For some reason it brings up my blog page in Korean...yes, I am in Romania....Sighisoara, a downscale place from Brasov with more spectacular walled city.

Brasov has the black church, so called because the outside walls were blackened by fire centuries ago. Not much left of the walls but some beautiful walking space/city center with a clock tower from 1460. Our hotel was in the historic quarter and 100yrs old so quite new...good spot, good service.

Leaving Brasov we drove to Daracula's castle (Vlad the Impaler....a cup of coffee to anyone who can tell me the details of impaling.) which is Romania's #1 tourist stop, as the 10,000 teeny boppers present can attest. We were invited into a private tour with a family of 3 from Cleveland. Joanne's scepticism vanished and she, too, was very glad we stopped.

The drive to Sighisoara was a delightful ramble through mountains and countryside. I've been warned not so speed so we tool along at the speed limit which every other conveyance, other than horse carts, whip around us no matter the passing situations. I've made many Dacia owners happy because for once they could pass someone.

Joanne thought we were going to rough it when I said he had a hostel, the only place I could find online, but its very nice...and a comfortable walk from the hill on which the wall, towers, and historical churches stand...two of which are Lutheran.

Sighisoara was once mostly Saxon (German). Now of 25,000 people only 500 are Saxon and only 200 of them are pure. The old Saxon cemetery is a beautiful place with huge trees. beautiful flowers and the songs of birds.

The poet may have said, "What is so rare as a day in June?" but had he been here he would have said "May". Cloudless sky, slight breeze, 80 degrees....

There is a Lutheran Church on the highest point of the old walled city...Lutheran since the reformation. To get to it there is a covered staircase of 176 steps...6steps, landing, 6steps, landing, and so on...designed to remind climbers that God rested on the 7th day....sermon illustration anyone? Next to the church is the city high school. The church guide said no problem for the students but some of the teachers are 60 years old. Handicapped access does not exist in Romania. We will go to a concert...classical...tonight.

If it weren't for the Romanian steps I'd have gained 50 lbs. by now. We were served the traditional Romanian brandy last night after our waitress forgot Joanne's salad....I'd take the brandy over the salad any day. In Brasov we had pickled mushrooms....the waiter talked to fast for me to follow...if the taste didn't get the texture did!

I have I told you that we're having a grand time? Well we are as we do our self guided elder hostel.

Friday, May 11, 2007

A Mighty Fortress

After renting our car (roller skate?) in Bucharest we headed north into the mountains. Our first stop was Sinai (they spell Siniai) to visit the Castle of King Carol I., who, incidentally died one year after its completion so there you have a sermon illustration for "bigger barns". As we walked up the pathway through the forest to the castle we could hear strains of a flute wafting through the trees. Walking farther we recognized the tune of "A Mighty Fortress". How did he know we are Lutheran? The sincere looks, the looking at our shoes, the sense of guilt for having so much fun in Romania? The castle/palace was worth the time.

Last night in Bucharest our hotel got us a reserved table at Cara Ru Bere, translated House Of Beer. I know I don't get out much but I'd never seen anything like that! Vaulted painted, ceilings, three floors of serving, beer in 300ml, 500ml, and 1000ml steins and live entertainment. Two couples who danced traditional Romanian, modern ballroom and jitterbug. Food was great, beer plentiful, entertainment fum and the ambiance superb...and one block from our hotel.

Did I tell you we're in Brasov? We're in a classic old hotel in the historic quarter about 4 blocks from the famous Black Church, so called because of a fire. Getting here was a trip. Imagine navigating through Detroit without a may to enter a medieval city not designed to cars with the barest map....yet Joanne pulled it off. We parked about 4 blocks away, walked to the hotel, registered and the clerk walked back with us to the car. Then we learned, from her, never to leave our baggage in the car...even on a busy street in broad daylight. Lucky and again the beneficiary of exceptionally helpful hotel staff!

I tend to travel in my 'happy space' ignoring the others around me on airplanes, etc. Joanne, on the other hand is making friends across the continent: a young man from Uganda, who graduated from college in Toronto now on his way back to run a business in Africa; a government employee from Romania on the flight to Bucharest, etc.

Thursday, May 10, 2007

Sometimes the luck is good!

Looking to reserve a hotel in Bucharest I went to Expedia.com. I found the Rembrandt in the historical section and signed on. Just before we left Mpls I found it mentioned in the National Geographic Traveler as a great place to stay. Boy is that true! Great room 25' X 30', super breakfast, good price and the most helpful staff I've ever experienced who speak flawless English. It's a little boutique hotel owned by the Dutch, thus the name , in a historic bank building.

The taxi ride in the from the airport was a triiiiiiippp!!! Wildest thing since the airport to Hanoi trip in Vietnam. That driver could really make his ancient Dacia go even with the un-synchronized transmission. Drove the wrong side of the road an played chicken with the oncoming traffic. I glanced over at Joanne and she was looking out the side window, knuckles white... When the driver heard us debating the exchange rate he opened his newspaper as he drove and point out the exchange rate to us. (I have synapse missing in my brain when it comes doing currency conversion. So now I just ask Joanne.) He'd do great on the NASCAR circuit! Way better than an amusement park! Adrenalin time!

Rick & Carolyn Nelson, Rick's the son of Audrey Nelson from St. James, joined us for dinner last night. What a blast. We went to a traditional Romanian restaurant near our hotel as recommend by the hotel staff. No fear of bird flu here with alive chickens, ducks, geese, etc. enclosed at the entrance. It was a big place with seating at picnic style tables and live band featuring traditional dancers. I have a picture to prove that I joined the dancers on stage....recruited by pretty girl who left to find another recruit soon after she'd received her tip and I found myself in a circle dance between to Romanian guys. The food was traditional...Joanne had the national cornmeal mush with cabbage rolls and I had Carpathian bear...tasted just like chicken...no actually more like beef. Had some wonderful wine which the waiter said could only be found in Romania. Would someone please ask Jim Verlautz if it is true that Feteasca Neagra can only be found in Romania?

This morning we walked to the Palace of the People and had a tour. It's the building that Ceausesca had built in 1982, second only in size to the Pentagon. 16% of Bucharest was bulldozed for it leaving 80,000 people homeless. One of the effects today is that the dogs displaced went wild so that there are huge packs on the outskirts of town today. 3 million cubic meters of marble, all from Romania, was used, 5000 tons of crystal for chandeliers, and it is 365,000 cubic meters in size. Parliament meets in it and it is used for conferences but much of it is empty. We saw one drape that weighed 2000lbs.

This afternoon we visited a villages museum which is a park with villages re-constructed from the various areas of Romania. Could have been a lot worse. Weather is superb...perhaps 80 and sunny!

I can see why Bucharest is called little Paris. Wonderful avenues, beautiful architectural gems, where they haven't been bulldozed for ugly Communist construction. Unfortunately the traffic is very bad. Seven yeas ago, no cars, and today....constant traffic jams.

Wednesday, May 9, 2007

In Tansit

We're at Schipol on our way to Bucharest. Had a wonderful three days in Paris...a truly magical city. Never did get my French passport stamp cuz of Euro deal.. Joanne last flew into Paris 50 years ago from Fankfurt. She wondered why they handed her a scarf in the airport and then she discovered it was an open cockpit plane.

Surprises in Paris: Friendly people, use of English, how walkable the city, that the Eiffel Tower is in the middle of the city, that all sidwalk cafe seats face the sidewalk, very little body piercing(at least visible), the city view from Montemarte, the size of Louvre, Mona's petit, the cost!, little adventure because everything's so easy, no passport check at the airport arrival, owners don't clean up after thier dogs........opn to Romania.

Tuesday, May 8, 2007

Mystery Revealed

After centuries of mystery it has finally been revealed why Mona Lisa has such a tight lipped smile. As it turns out she has piece of spinach caught in her teeth about which she's self conscious.

Today we visited Montemarte, the highest point in Paris, and the Basilica of the Sacred Heart. Novenas 9 Euro. Beautiful panaroma of Paris once I managed to drag Joanne away from Pigalle. Quite different ambiance at this end of Paris. Don't know that I've ever seen such a city panorma any where in my travels.

I'm finding the French friendly and quite willing to speak English to me. Perhaps helps that I'm a geezer. A few rain showers today but the sun comes out between.

Some sort of holiday today but haven't figured out quite what it is.

Monday, May 7, 2007

Like Cattle Around A Dog

I was sitting at a sidealk cafe on the Champs de Elysses enjoying a meal while people watching when suddenly I looked up and discovered I was the one being watched. The crowd in front reminded me of a herd of cattle surrounding a strange dog. What have I done? Looking into their eyes I saw they were looking just over my head. I peered over my shoulder and noted they were watching presidential election results on a large tv in the window. When the result was announced the crowd dispursed and there was much honking of horns on the street.

I met Mona Lisa today, smaller than I expected,,,,also met Venus de Milo, who needs a good orthopaedic surgeon, had a nap in Notre Dame and thought that the Eiffel Tower would work well for a windmill.

Love the Metro,,,subway system,,,easy way to see the sights. Working to master the French keyboard, q and a are reversed so thqt cquses problems. I ll keep trying.

Sunday, May 6, 2007

Strangers in Paris

"Are you Americans?" she asked. "Yes." "I have a grandson in Iraq." Her son is married to an American and its his son in Iraq. What is one to say?

We made it to Paris fine,,,but postings will have to wait until I find a keyboard that's not laid out French style. Too hard to break old keyboard habits!